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Routes in Elephant Rock - East

Columbian Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heironimous Bosch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Just Say No S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pretzel Logic T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pygmies Got Stoned, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rye Crisp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sinsemilla T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Tres Amigos S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wash Out T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Wheat Thin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Greg Lowe and friends, 1960's
Page Views: 16,601 total · 98/month
Shared By: kBobby Hanson on Apr 9, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

Aaahh, the good stuff! This crack is good, and long! On the east side of Elephant Rock is the fence marking private property. Forty feet past the fence is a large boulder which forms a chimney with the face. There is a nice hand crack coming down into this chimney but not all the way to the ground. This is the Columbian Crack.

Start up the chimney toward the crack. A good option for protecting this start is to go around to the east side of the boulder before you start up and toss your rope over. Have your belayer belay from this side. Then you are essentially on TR until you get to the crack. Climb up to the top of the chimney and step out onto the boulder. Have your belayer come back around to the inside of the chimney. Now you are ready to go!

Follow the ever-widening crack to the top, passing one old SMC bolt and finishing at another single bolt. Belay at this bolt (I think you can probably get some other gear in around here, but I don't remember exactly).

Rappel off the anchors for Just Say No, or walk off the south side.

Protection

Same rack that you used on Rye Crisp. Standard rack, heavy in large gear.
Matt Wenger
Bozeman
 
Matt Wenger   Bozeman
 
Super fun climb! Cool chimney start (you can throw the rope over and TR it for pro), great upper crack. BD #5 cam nice to have up top. You can bump it along for a few moves as the wide crack keeps going...and going. Classic. Jul 5, 2017
sclair
SLC, Ut
  5.7
sclair   SLC, Ut
  5.7
I enjoyed this much more than wheat thin. I thought the climbing was more consistent for the grade and more varied in technique. Great jams if your hands are gold and blue camalot sized with plenty of options in between. Anyone saying this is a flared groove might have missed the jams, so don't be dismayed. Might feel harder if you're hands are smaller but the rock is well featured Jun 11, 2017
johnny utah
Salt Lake City
 
johnny utah   Salt Lake City
 
If you run this pitch past the ending bolt straight up you can set a bomber anchor at about 68m off the ground using .5 and .75 cams. Just can't hear your follower well from there.

In the chimney at the bottom there is gear left of the lower part of the crack and high on the pillar behind you. Aug 20, 2016
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Best crack on the elephant! I would assume the bolts next to the crack up high are relics from a time when ropes were short ( belay option) and large cams had not been invented yet. New technologies (large cams)have a way of changing everything- including common opinions. You can rap with a 70 from the top of Just Say No- a short ways right from the top out. Aug 27, 2015
pooch
 
pooch  
 
regarding the lone bolt 40ft from the top- clipping a short draw to it keeps your rope from walking gear below it in too far... Sep 16, 2014
DrApnea
Wenatchee, WA
 
DrApnea   Wenatchee, WA
 
Why are there bolts next to this perfect crack? Bring the big gear, pull the bolts. If this route needs any bolts it is only for a station to rap from. Jul 2, 2014
craiger Craig
park city
 
craiger Craig   park city
 
Great climb
Fun chimney
Good exposure Apr 22, 2014
TNORM  
Nice climb with fun Jams. Longer than it looks. Safe your bigger cams for up high and the anchor. I used cams from .5-5in(not really needed).
Couple/maybe even three #3's and #4's would nice if your new to leading and really want to stitch it up and have gear for the anchor. Sep 29, 2013
Ryan s Nelson
Salt Lake City, Ut
  5.7
Ryan s Nelson   Salt Lake City, Ut
  5.7
After belaying up a couple friends on this route they both reported the chimney to be challenging for them, if this is of concern to you- once in the chimney if you head further into it (to the south) there is a crack with some good hand/foot holds to supplement the chimneying. At any rate it's rather secure and comfortable chimneying. Sep 8, 2013
K Baumgartner
  5.6
K Baumgartner  
  5.6
A must do at Elephant Rock. Had the left foot/hand in the crack, right foot/hand on the face. This crack was made for hexes. Used 4 of those puppies.

Belayed at the second bolt, backed up with a #3 in somewhat flaring rock. Jun 28, 2013
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.7+
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.7+
I honestly wasn't thrilled about this climb. Maybe because my favorite thing in this world is continuously hand and foot-jam. And for some silly reason I thought that's what this route would be. A City of Rocks version of Indian Creek! Haha.

But yeah, the route traverses too significantly to the right to really ever get continuous jams in. My right calf was about to explode from constantly edging on some small to medium sized footholds the whole way up. Still fun, and worth doing! My expectations were probably in the wrong place, that's why it's not a favorite...

I placed a #4 cam at the top next to the 2nd bolt. The crack does constrict though, so I'm betting a #3 would work as well. Jun 17, 2013
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
 
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
 
I chose not to TR the chimney - be prepared to be in the zone once you reach the crack in this fashion. Fun climb, but didn't feel as classic as either Rye Crisp or Wheat Thin to me. Definitely bring along 2's, 3's, and a 4 for this climb.

As for the top - I can't speak for everyone, but belaying my partner up from a single bolt is not ideal. I was also out of big gear at the top and couldn't build an anchor near that bolt. I was using a 70m and was able to head right at the top to the top of Rye Crisp and build a bomber anchor there with my smaller gear. Apr 1, 2012
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
 
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
 
Bring your big gear as I dont think I placed anything smaller than a #1. A fun climb but could be heady for a first leader. Placed a whole crapload of #3's. Sorta turns into a groveling off width at the top. Bring a number 4 up to back up the single bolt anchor at the top. Have fun! Apr 26, 2011
Woodson
Park City, Ut.
  5.7
Woodson   Park City, Ut.
  5.7
I thought this was a heady lead, as the chimney starts those thoughts rolling! Save a # 4 for the top for some peace of mind. Sep 20, 2009
Brice W
  5.7
Brice W  
  5.7
This is a fun crack that you don't have to jam much because of all the face holds. I wouldn't do it before Rye Crisp or Wheat Thin, but definitely worth doing if you are at Elephant Rock. Sep 8, 2008
Ben Folsom  
 
This is a great route, and if for some reason you don't like cracks, you barely even have to use the crack as huge buckets are everywhere. Aug 21, 2007
sqwirll
Las Vegas
  5.7+
sqwirll   Las Vegas
  5.7+
This climb is great. Don't let the negative comments detour you from climbing this. I'm not sure where the flared groove comment came from, but it's a perfect hand and fist crack. A #4 camalot works nicely to supplement the one bolt anchor. May 29, 2007
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
A great, easy crack. Oct 24, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.7
Nathan Fisher  
  5.7
Not nearly as good as other routes in the area. I was not too impressed with this route. Still worth climbing and worth the less than 5 minute approach to get there. Sep 11, 2006
Tea
Tea  
Extra #3 Camalots, Helpful...maybe even a 3.5 or 4 on the rack. Jun 12, 2006
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Last I heard, this route is open to the public for climbing. Great route. Jun 6, 2006
Addict
 
Addict  
 
The "crack" is more of a flared groove and is not very fun. 2 stars for its length. Also, who is the idiot that placed 2 bolts right next to perfect gear placements on the upper half of the route? May 23, 2006
FYI: as of two weeks ago that side of Elephant Rock got opened, i saw a ranger type guy up there fixing some old anchors. Aug 18, 2005
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.7
This is my favorite 5.7 at the City so far. Stiff and sustained for 5.7, and lots of varied climbing. The idea for protecting the chimney never occurred to me, but the climbing is fairly secure. Jun 23, 2005

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