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Routes in Morning Glory Spire

Book of Dissent T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brown Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Easiest Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fall Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning Glory S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Power Tools S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Reach for the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Siesta S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strategic Defense T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Veal Cage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Description

This spire sits SSE of Parking Lot Rock, and has 15 routes up it's 100 foot height. The climbs are on the NW to SW faces with some exception (unnamed chimney route).They range in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.12c, with unnamed chimney route (5.5) and Veal Cage (unknown former 5.12a due to a broken key hold) being the exceptions. Skyline, Strategic Defense, Power Tools, and Crack of Doom all are classics.

Getting There

Park at the parking lot on the right just past campsites 64 and 65, and take the trail towards Parking Lot Rock, turning south when you get the chance. As you cut throught the divide of Parking Lot Rock and Morning Glory Spire, angle right and either scramble up the ledge system for the NW side or head to the SW side.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Morning Glory Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 505
Skyline
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 37
Chimney
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 192
Fall Line
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 14
Reach for the Sky
Trad, Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 96
Morning Glory
Sport 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 72
Brown Flake
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 17
Siesta
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 174
Crack of Doom
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 91
Strategic Defense
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 19
Power Tools
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Skyline
 505
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Chimney
 37
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Fall Line
 192
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Reach for the Sky
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad, Sport
Morning Glory
 96
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 3 pitches
Brown Flake
 72
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Siesta
 17
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Crack of Doom
 174
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Strategic Defense
 91
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Power Tools
 19
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Morning Glory Spire »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
AKA The Incisor. Aug 22, 2005
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Perhaps the highest concentration of quality routes at the City. Awesome stuff. And you can follow the shade or sun like a sundial around the base. A 70m rope comes in handy here. Jul 31, 2006
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
I lost a pair of la sportiva muiras at the base of strategic defense/crack of doom at the city of rocks, the second week of october, 2009. The shoes were probably size 40. If you found them, please, let me know. Dec 5, 2009
Seth Hendy   Slc
The description of how to get to Morning Glory Spire is so frustrating and a waste of peoples time. It says that it is the parking lot just past campsite 64 and 65 which is not correct. If someone goes to campsite 64 you will find your self 20 mins past where you really need to be.

It is as simple as follow City of Rocks road through the main campsite area past Bath Rock until you see the turn for Parking Lot Rock. Once you get on the main trail just simply follow it until you see the sign for Morning Glory Spire. 5 min approach Sep 8, 2015

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