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Morning Glory Spire Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Morning Glory Spire

L › R R › L A › Z

	Book of Dissent T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Brown Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Crack of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Easiest Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Fall Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Morning Glory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Power Tools S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Reach for the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Siesta S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Strategic Defense T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Veal Cage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

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Elevation:	6,648 ft	2,026 m
GPS:	42.08282, -113.72147 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	89,476 total · 345/month
Shared By:	Nathan Fisher on Jul 26, 2004
Admins:	GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

This spire sits SSE of Parking Lot Rock, and has about 15 routes. Most of the climbs are on the NW to SW faces though the excellent Morning Glory is a 3 pitch climb on the east face. Climbs range in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.12c. Skyline, Strategic Defense, Power Tools, and Crack of Doom all are classics.

Getting There

Starting from the Parking Lot Rock parking lot, take the trail towards Parking Lot Rock. After 50 feet or so, follow the right fork to the south end of Parking Lot Rock. Contour around and follow the trail directly to Morning Glory Spire. 5 mins.

13 Total Climbs

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Location:	Morning Glory Spire Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Morning Glory Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 981 ● Skyline Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 66 ● Chimney Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 377 ● Fall Line Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R 16 ● Reach for the Sky Trad, Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 161 ● Brown Flake Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 162 ● Morning Glory Sport 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 33 ● Siesta Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 337 ● Crack of Doom Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 176 ● Strategic Defense Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 38 ● Power Tools Sport