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Routes in Morning Glory Spire

Book of Dissent T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brown Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Easiest Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fall Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning Glory S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Power Tools S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Reach for the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Siesta S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strategic Defense T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Veal Cage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Hanna North, 2003
Page Views: 4,624 total · 34/month
Shared By: meo on Jun 24, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

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Three pitch's 10a,10d,10b The best pitch and the crux are the 2nd. The third pitch does not follow the natural line but rather goes straight up after pulling a very exposed move onto the large flake.


The route is on the east face around and left of the popular SkyLine route. You can make three rappels with one rope back to the base and your packs.


Mostly bolts but could supplement with a light rack. Small to medium


tom selleck  
You can also just rap to the ground uphill of where you started in one rap and do a little downhill hiking back to the base. Probably faster than doing three raps. Great route! Oct 3, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
You can make one rap from the top with a 60m rope (just makes it) from the Skyline anchors. Those anchors are located right at the top of the formation. Oct 3, 2007
Mike Minson
Boulder, CO
Mike Minson   Boulder, CO
Two 60 m ropes get you to the ground in one rap. Climbing in a threesome sets this up perfectly. Oct 5, 2010
Finn The Human
The Land of Ooo
Finn The Human   The Land of Ooo
Did this climb yesterday, and we were a little thrown off by the third pitch. After the first 3 bolts there was an unexpected runout on easy climbing. It was nothing really dangerous, but it wasn't mentioned in the book. It wouldn't hurt to have another bolt somewhere in there.

The bouldery start of P3 on the big flake definitely made the climb for me! I would also recommend continuing up to the Skyline anchors and rapping from there. Sep 19, 2011
Erik S. Gillis
Salt Lake City, Utah
Erik S. Gillis   Salt Lake City, Utah
I agree the second pitch is what makes this one worth it. For the last pitch we did a variation where we followed the crack/corner till it ended and then headed straight up the face. My guess is the rating is still around 10a or b only cause the first move off the second pitch belay is that hard, other than that the rest is pretty easy with a runout 5-4 or so. No additional bolt is needed here. May 15, 2013
Definitely watch your shit on the 3rd pitch, easy climbing but atleast a 25+ foot runout, very exciting! Oct 19, 2013
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
A great multi-pitch in a nice setting, and it seems to not get as much traffic as one might expect. Pitch 1 is harder than it looks from the ground. Pitch 2 is just stellar! Pitch 3 felt reasonably protected following the bolt line. Sep 3, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d PG13
Good mostly for its length. You can do it P1 and then P2-3 linked if you like. Single-rope rap on a 70M easily puts you from the summit to the base of Skyline. Jun 16, 2016
Brock Jones
Provo, UT
Brock Jones   Provo, UT
Some mighty fine slab climbing! Thought all three pitches were quality and, with the exception of the end of p3 which turns into classic COR hero jugs, very sustained for the grades. I was very glad to have a set of nuts to turn what would have been pg-13 or r rated runouts into very safe climbing. Aug 7, 2018

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