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Routes in Morning Glory Spire

Book of Dissent T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brown Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Easiest Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fall Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning Glory S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Power Tools S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Reach for the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Siesta S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strategic Defense T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Veal Cage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jay Goodwin, 1984
Page Views: 1,187 total · 7/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 3, 2005
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

14 Opinions

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Left of Skyline is a nice face climb that culminates below the 5.12+ Veal Cage. It consists of thin edging up a nice face with a couple of reachy moves. The injury potential is getting to the first bolt as it is not easy climbing to the first bolt, so have a spotter or three. The nice left traverse mixes up the styles nicely on this climb. Do it while waiting for one of the other Morning Glory routes.


3 bolts on the route, 2 bolt anchor, and some small cams or nuts for the finish.


the open road
5.10b/c R
Allie   the open road
5.10b/c R
Make sure you bring some pro to place before the anchor-- the crux is right before the anchor, and a fall here would bring you pretty close to the ground... Mar 5, 2008
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.10b R
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.10b R
A straight forward slab with the potential of a nasty cheese grader long fall. You can bring small peices to protect between the last bolt and the chains, or you can just bring your's only .10b so they don't need to be that big. A spotter to the first bolt is a smart idea. Sep 9, 2009
Originally, this route climbed past the bolts to the short, little corner/crack and then went left under the roof on the thin finger crack traverse out to the corner to a gear belay (this is, I think, now the second (bolted?) belay on Hannah North's Morning Glory route). Second pitch went to the top of the tower. Sometime after the route went up, someone added the chain anchors at the start of the traverse. The traverse was the hardest part of the climb in my opinion, so stopping at the chain anchors leaves the hardest and most memorable part of this climb undone. Jun 24, 2018

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