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Routes in Morning Glory Spire

Book of Dissent T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brown Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Easiest Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fall Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning Glory S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Power Tools S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Reach for the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Siesta S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strategic Defense T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Veal Cage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Greg Lowe, 1965
Page Views: 4,773 total, 27/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 3, 2003
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

This route begins just to the left of Strategic Defense 5.11c. The opening moves follow a left facing dihedral and are tough to stop and place gear.

A rest is had before a 1 inch crack, follow this crack and traverse to the left. Work out some thin gear in the cracks and setup for the traverse back to the right.

This is where the fun begins. Lieback the flake, and work hard to protect yourself. The gear can be good, but it is pumpy to place. Race to the ledge before your hands open up on their own. Traverse to the right and rap on the S.D. anchors.

Protection

TCU's, lowe balls, medium cams, and nuts

Photos

telepaulk
  5.10d
telepaulk  
  5.10d
great route! I found it safer and more fun to climb on two ropes. May 16, 2016
kevinhansen
Albion Idaho
kevinhansen   Albion Idaho
youtu.be/Pubo2PNpwSo Mar 4, 2016
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
 
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
 
Fun route, I can't believe I waited so long to get on it. In my opinion, it's not so bad, and feels right on at 10+ (certainly easier than Tiny Town or Scar Tissue). Takes more nuts than cams. The nearest anchors are for Skyline, so on a busy weekend you'll have to make a gear anchor. Aug 22, 2011
Kevin Volkening
  5.10d
Kevin Volkening  
  5.10d
Great pitch and a must do! Watch rope drag, use extendable runners on most of your pieces before you get to the brown flake. Jun 6, 2011
Ben Folsom  
 
Jeffrey, I saw you do this when you were feeling really sick. Nice work. I hope you guys had a good rest of your trip.
Really good route, and for sure pumpy. Funny how Fall Line is .10c and this gets .10d, and Brown Flake feels a whole # grade harder. Sep 20, 2010
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
Lead this on the morning of 9/12/2010...day 4 of a vicious 7-day C-Diff infection....and handn't eaten a bite for 18+ hrs. IMO, this is a tougher on-sight than Crack-Of-Doom...and a lot more rewarding as a climb. More-varied, both gymnastically and in gear placements. I was pumped out of my mind at the tope the flake. I rarely emote on routes, but this time I did! Sep 18, 2010
pumpy! Sep 16, 2008
An experienced City climber suggested this route was more like 5.11a before we did it, and I wouldn't argue. With bolts it would be a cruise, but placing the pro requires an ever-evolving battle between the rising pump and the desire for security. Many will need to punch it to reach the jugs near the top, and then they'll wish those jugs were bigger. Great stuff! Aug 29, 2006