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Routes in Morning Glory Spire

Book of Dissent T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brown Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Easiest Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fall Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning Glory S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Power Tools S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Reach for the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Siesta S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strategic Defense T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Veal Cage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro
Page Views: 477 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jason Young on May 31, 2012
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

I thought I'd include this route for nostalgia (since I had a mini-epic on it years ago). Pull the large overlap/roof above the anchors of "Reach for the Sky" (a route which is an interesting feat in-and-of itself). Reportedly harder than the original rating of 5.11c now that "the" jug has broken off (don't know who could've done that). I bet this route seldom get done. I know it didn't even when it was 5.11c.

Location

Climb to the anchors of "Reach for the Sky" and continue up and left to the next set of anchors about 20 feet further. Located between "Morning Glory" and "Skyline".

Protection

Bolts to a two-bolt chain anchor.

Photos

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FA - Tony Yaniro. Sep 22, 2013
That person would be me...the jug breaker that is! Actually it broke quite easily as I was pulling the move off of it. That was in '93 or '94 on a roadtrip with my buddy Chip R. After it broke, I pulled some of the fractured pieces out, lowered off, pulled the rope and re-lead it. We called it 12- and moved on. I remember the whole roof feeling sorta creaky. It musta broke more afterwards because it definitely wasn't 12c; it was easier than the crux of other .12's like Power Tools, etc. Jan 7, 2013