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Routes in Morning Glory Spire

Book of Dissent T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brown Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Easiest Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fall Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning Glory S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Power Tools S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Reach for the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Siesta S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strategic Defense T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Veal Cage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,612 total · 18/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Jul 30, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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32 Opinions

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Description [Edit]

If this had a better name, it would get more traffic! This is a fun, well protected pitch between Strategic Defense and Crack of Doom. Good crack climbing, stemming, and some body english will see you through two chimneys and a memorable roof. Good clean fun. If you've come to climb Skyline and it is busy - jump on this worthy alternative.

Location [Edit]

Between Strategic Defense and Crack of Doom - look for the obvious chimney.

Protection [Edit]

Cams from fingers to #3 Camalot and wires. Bolts + chains on top (shared with Strategic Defense)

Photos

I recall there being an alternative to working the roof - tunneling up a true chimney. Rather than go out to the roof, cut in and right and there's a squeeze that's barely wider than your hips (front to back). If you have some badunkadunk or extra gear, this will probably be not much fun. For me, it is what made this climb memorable. Complete enclosed-ness except for straight up. Nov 30, 2011
Mike Marmar
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Mike Marmar   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The climbing itself is not bad, but the chimney is full of rat shit, bird shit, and animal carcasses. On my way up I passed a dead rat, dead bird, bird's nest, and heaping piles of feces. The rock is covered in dried animal urine in places as well.

If you take the roof, you will get your rope stuck in the roof crack unless you managed to climb the last 25ft of the chimney without placing any pro. I ended up keeping it out of the crack by placing an upside-down cam right at the lip of the roof. Oct 6, 2014
I've never heard of this chimney being called "Incisor". Jan 20, 2015
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
No animal carcasses, some feces (but avoidable) and really interesting, excellent climbing. I really enjoyed pulling the roof at the end. I thought a triple length sling fully extended would get me up without rope issues moving from the final chimney through the roof, but the rope still pushed in my cam at the lip of the roof. Best to either not protect the last chimney or use enough slings to make a straight fall line.

I really enjoyed this unique route, though some may be turned off by the evidence of animals therein.

This is in Dave Bingham's guidebook under Chimney. I don't think Incisor is the correct name. Apr 9, 2016
the climb is worth doing and would probably seem better if it wasnt between two awesome climbs. If you place a .5 on the shelf right before you turn the lip (its probably behind you) it will help keep the rope out of the crack. Unfortunately, it took me getting my rope stuck three times before I figured this out. Or better yet just tunnel straight up and belay your second up. Apr 29, 2018

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