Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Tedd Thompson, Darius Azein, 1987
Page Views: 2,900 total · 23/month
Shared By: bheller on Jun 23, 2009
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


24 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This technical crimping testpiece was the first route at the City to be established on rappel with a power drill. The crux slaps you right at the first bolt and continues until the second bolt. (Have holds broken since the FA?) These opening moves climb like a powerful, sharp, crimpy V6 boulder problem. Above the crux is loads more delicate, cryptic,and crimpy climbing with another 11+ face climbing crux with fewer bolts than you might prefer. The climb is great, and the features it ascends are eye catching- you will rejoice upon solving the lower crux and leaving those painful crimps behind! As Bingham says "One of the best technical crimp challenges around."

Location

Located on the Morning glory Spire just left of the mega-classic Crack of Doom, and right of the Strategic Defence arete. Crack of Doom and Power Tools share the same start. Rappel from anchors at top- bring a 60m rope to be safe.

Protection

Spaced bolts all along, with an opportunity for micro cams in the higher vertical crack, and then a small finger sized cam in the final horizontal. You probably want to stick-clip the first bolt... but Johnny Woodward didn't and he onsighted:)

Photos

- No Photos -