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Routes in Morning Glory Spire

Book of Dissent T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brown Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Easiest Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fall Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning Glory S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Power Tools S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Reach for the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Siesta S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strategic Defense T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Veal Cage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Tedd Thompson, Darius Azein, 1987
Page Views: 2,075 total, 20/month
Shared By: bheller on Jun 23, 2009
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

This technical crimping testpiece was the first route at the City to be established on rappel with a power drill. The crux slaps you right at the first bolt and continues until the second bolt. (Have holds broken since the FA?) These opening moves climb like a powerful, sharp, crimpy V6 boulder problem. Above the crux is loads more delicate, cryptic,and crimpy climbing with another 11+ face climbing crux with fewer bolts than you might prefer. The climb is great, and the features it ascends are eye catching- you will rejoice upon solving the lower crux and leaving those painful crimps behind! As Bingham says "One of the best technical crimp challenges around."

Location

Located on the Morning glory Spire just left of the mega-classic Crack of Doom, and right of the Strategic Defence arete. Crack of Doom and Power Tools share the same start. Rappel from anchors at top- bring a 60m rope to be safe.

Protection

Spaced bolts all along, with an opportunity for micro cams in the higher vertical crack, and then a small finger sized cam in the final horizontal. You probably want to stick-clip the first bolt... but Johnny Woodward didn't and he onsighted:)

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Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12c/d
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12c/d
Brilliant route. This section of the City is stacked- 3 of the best climbs around adjacent to each other. Engaging the whole way. Blue and yellow metolius is all that's needed to take the spice out of the moderate finish. Start felt v6 to me also. Jun 22, 2015
Scott H.
Sandy, UT
Scott H.   Sandy, UT
Here is a video of B.Heller redpointing Power Tools.

youtu.be/t1uNGGBTlkM Sep 24, 2013
Ben Folsom  
 
Yeah, I guess... I don't consider myself a "California-surfin lookin' dude"... Between work and climbing and a few other interests, not much time left to go get a haircut I guess. I love "Nesting Egos" so I told my friend to do it at the end of the day and I got a nice TR run cleaning it for him. Anyway, Singapore seems harder to me than Nesting Egos. We saw you earlier that day... You did Brown Flake and some other stuff while we were on Crack of Doom and Crack of Dung. Sep 21, 2010
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
Are you the blonde california-surfin lookin' dude we saw TR'ing "Beware of Nesting Ego's"? I almost got on that. Did do Singapore and Battle of the Bulges clean though. Figgered I best not push my luck! Sep 20, 2010
Ben Folsom  
 
Great route, I thought it was classic. Although the crux is over with shortly, the 5.10/11 climbing on the rest of the route was totally captivating for me, and I thought the crux has some nice, interesting moves as well. If you are a scared climber like me, I would recommend bringing a #0.4 or #0.5 camalot sized piece for the horizontal crack above the last bolt. Sep 20, 2010