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Routes in Morning Glory Spire
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Book of Dissent T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brown Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Easiest Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Fall Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Morning Glory S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Power Tools S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Reach for the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Siesta S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strategic Defense T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Veal Cage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Greg Lowe, 1965 |
| Page Views: | 2,236 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | david goldstein on Aug 28, 2006 |
| Admins: | GRK, Eric Bluemn, Mike Engle |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Due to COVID 19, please be respectful of the residents of Almo. Wear a mask when indoors at places like Rock City or the Visitor Center. (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
AKA: Crack of Dung.
This is a worthwhile pitch. I gave it a low grade because of the guano and because the neighboring climbs are so much better.
Start in the next crack system right of Crack of Doom, below a thin crack in a corner/groove which becomes a chimney.
To start either traverse in from the left (easier) or go straight up to access the crack, the first 20' of which are the surprisingly hard crux. Above that, continue with chimneying. After the crack ends, diagonal left for the COD anchors. Note: there is a rap anchor after about 10M; consider yourself a lowly piker if you employ this.
This is a worthwhile pitch. I gave it a low grade because of the guano and because the neighboring climbs are so much better.
Start in the next crack system right of Crack of Doom, below a thin crack in a corner/groove which becomes a chimney.
To start either traverse in from the left (easier) or go straight up to access the crack, the first 20' of which are the surprisingly hard crux. Above that, continue with chimneying. After the crack ends, diagonal left for the COD anchors. Note: there is a rap anchor after about 10M; consider yourself a lowly piker if you employ this.
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