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Routes in Morning Glory Spire

Book of Dissent T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brown Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Easiest Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fall Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning Glory S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Power Tools S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Reach for the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Siesta S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strategic Defense T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Veal Cage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Greg Lowe, 1965
Page Views: 1,523 total · 11/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Aug 28, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

AKA: Crack of Dung.

This is a worthwhile pitch. I gave it a low grade because of the guano and because the neighboring climbs are so much better.

Start in the next crack system right of Crack of Doom, below a thin crack in a corner/groove which becomes a chimney.

To start either traverse in from the left (easier) or go straight up to access the crack, the first 20' of which are the surprisingly hard crux. Above that, continue with chimneying. After the crack ends, diagonal left for the COD anchors. Note: there is a rap anchor after about 10M; consider yourself a lowly piker if you employ this.

Protection

Lots of small stuff, RPs to small cams. There is a vintage (first ascent?) pin near the top of the chimney which you will probably have to excavate from dung to clip.

Photos

Clint Locks
Boulder
 
Clint Locks   Boulder
 
Whined about the beginning, which turned out to be not that bad. Couldn't hang past the crap paddie, so rapped at the fixed cord. Guess I missed out on the cool chimney. Oh well. Jun 13, 2015
K Baumgartner
  5.10a
K Baumgartner  
  5.10a
This is a must do 10, which is WAYYYY harder than Bloody Fingers of the same grade. Belayed from chains to the right near the top of the climb after the 7 foot hand crack section. Jun 27, 2013
Ben Folsom  
 
A great route with a nice section of fingers, (then poop, but easily avoidable.) The chimney is super fun. Bring small nuts. Sep 15, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Crumbly at the start, slick at the bottom, shitty at 1/3 of the way (as in poop) and then EZ chimneying. What's not to love? May 1, 2007