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Routes in Morning Glory Spire
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Book of Dissent T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brown Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Easiest Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Fall Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Morning Glory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Power Tools S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Reach for the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Siesta S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strategic Defense T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Veal Cage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 42.08282, -113.72147 |
| FA: | Greg Lowe, 1965 |
| Page Views: | 2,933 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | david goldstein on Aug 28, 2006 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
AKA: Crack of Dung.
This is a worthwhile pitch. I gave it a low grade because of the guano and because the neighboring climbs are so much better.
Start in the next crack system right of Crack of Doom, below a thin crack in a corner/groove which becomes a chimney.
To start either traverse in from the left (easier) or go straight up to access the crack, the first 20' of which are the surprisingly hard crux. Above that, continue with chimneying. After the crack ends, diagonal left for the COD anchors. Note: there is a rap anchor after about 10M; consider yourself a lowly piker if you employ this.
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