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Routes in Morning Glory Spire

Book of Dissent T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brown Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Easiest Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fall Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning Glory S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Power Tools S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Reach for the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Siesta S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strategic Defense T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Veal Cage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,001 total · 15/month
Shared By: K Baumgartner on Jun 27, 2013
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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Description

There are two starts to this route. Either begin as for Crack of Dung but veer right around the corner OR start 15 feet down to the right and climb the water gulley with no pro. The latter has the advantage of reducing rope drag.

Head up to the chimney to the fixed tat. Continue up to a ledge and veer right of the left facing crack (probably 5.7-5.8). You'll meet a wall to the left with a large block on top. It's probably 5.7 if you go straight up or you can keep it 5.5 by going around back of this block the right. Build an anchor.

Scramble up and left to the anchors on top of Skyline.

Photos

Awkward to climb roped, dirty, and covered in lichen. Climb into the "tunnel" and go eastward, up the ramp straddling the crack, then slot the rope back thru the notch to avoid drag. Marginal anchor on slung boulders. Or just solo it. Jun 4, 2017

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