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Routes in Morning Glory Spire

Book of Dissent T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brown Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Easiest Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fall Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning Glory S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Power Tools S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Reach for the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Siesta S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strategic Defense T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Veal Cage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Dave Bingham, Ted Thompson 1988
Page Views: 1,416 total · 8/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 13, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

17 Opinions

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This is the first sport climb to the right of Crack of Doom. This is a tough send at 5.11b. I saw a guy warm up on Stategic Defense and onsight Crack of Doom, but he got shut down on this climb. Go figure...

It is a little runout at the top.




Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
The book says the first, high clip is easy. I disagree... a fall from the move to get under the bolt would result in serious injury, and it is not easy. On the ledge to the right of the bolt I found a convenient stick for stick-clipping - apparently I'm not the first to find this clip too much to swallow.

Once engaged on the arete, expect challenging, balancey climbing - particularly the opening moves. This is a very difficult onsight for the grade (I didn't get it), but it is definitely easier and less scary then Strategic Defense! Two ledges enroute offer convenient rests.

A worthy tick if you're in the neighborhood!

Gear: 5 bolts. A #0.5 Camalot could be useful between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, and a larger nut helps protect the first clip. Jul 30, 2006
Andy is right about the bolts, we did this thing when it was rated 11a (iirc) and it is a stiffy even for b.

Mar 21, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
I thought it was no harder than Fire Water, the other 11b I did there. The "crux" was not really that bad (flashed that, second route ever at the city, warming up). I also think the difficulty of the first climp was reach dependent, as I had no issue with my albatros arms. However, the second clip is on small holds flash-pumped me out. I ended up hanging from the jugs higher on the route! May 1, 2007
A decent bolted line that'll leave you scratching your head at the rating. Actually only one move felt harder than .11b. Holds of all shapes and sizes, oh and don't fall going to that first clip. Sep 9, 2009
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
5.11b PG13
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
5.11b PG13
This climb is very obviously reach dependent--at ~5' 9" span, I barely reach on the opening moves. I think that mostly explains the disagreement in grade. I thought everything past the opening moves was fairly easy, and the top is pretty much jug pulling interspersed with mild slab. The opening moves are going to range anywhere from insanely hard to trivial depending on your reach. Jul 20, 2015
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
5.11b PG13
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
5.11b PG13
Oh, and the first bolt is pure idiocy--blowing that clip would be dangerous, and a stick-clip is probably wise if you're in the City for fun/exercise instead of cheap thrills.

In general, the bolt placement is poor (they're all about a foot higher than they should be) and generally detracts from an otherwise stellar line. Jul 20, 2015
Sorry about the high first bolt. It seemed easy at the time! I will see about a fix. PS, I'm 5'6". Oct 28, 2015
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
A great route in my book. But I'm also 6' 2" with a +2. Bring a stick clip or small cams to soften the sporty start. Sep 22, 2016

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