Crack of Doom
Avg: 3.9 from 171 votes
Routes in Morning Glory Spire
|Book of Dissent T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Brown Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Crack of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Easiest Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Fall Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Morning Glory S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Power Tools S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Reach for the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Siesta S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Strategic Defense T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Veal Cage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|FA:||Greg Lowe, 1965|
|Page Views:||20,603 total, 125/month|
|Shared By:||Guy H. on Jun 8, 2004|
|Admins:||grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle|
DescriptionThis is "the" 5.11 crack climb at the City. It is just to the right of Power Tools.
The start is protected by a fixed pin, which can be stick clipped. A fixed nut has remained in place about 2 feet above the pin for the last couple years. These 2 pieces protect the opening crux moves very well.
Start on the shelf to the left and traverse into the crack. Grab the correct holds and these moves are only 5.11a. Work the face on the right and get established in the thin finger crack. Thin crack and stem moves will lead you to a rest jam at the roof.
The second crux is moving into the hand crack above the small roof. (#3.5 Camalot and poor feet) A continuous slightly overhanging hand crack leads to a 2 bolt anchor.