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Routes in Morning Glory Spire
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Book of Dissent T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brown Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Easiest Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Fall Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Morning Glory S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Power Tools S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Reach for the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Siesta S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strategic Defense T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Veal Cage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Jeff Rhodes, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 8,476 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Jun 12, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Eric Bluemn, Mike Engle |
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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
This is the most popular sport climb on the Morning Glory Spire. Start just right of Skyline 5.8. If you straighten out the line, it is 5.10c. If you zig and zag on the good holds, it is only 5.10a.
Follow a right facing corner, until you hit a slab. The slab is a little runout. Fun face climbing is had above. Head right to ease the grade. Finish on a small bulge right before the anchors.
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