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Radicella Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Radicella Rock

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	Children of the Corn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Micro Pillar S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Petrodactyl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Whim-Z S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Elevation:	6,253 ft	1,906 m
GPS:	42.07499, -113.71366 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	1,028 total · 38/month
Shared By:	snclimber on Sep 7, 2022 · Updates
Admins:	GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

NO DOGS. PLEASE! Digging dogs are worsening erosion in this area and may get this wonderful crag closed permanently.

The right hand (south) half of the west face of Radicella Rock is a beautiful, highly featured, low angle wall. The cliff faces west, so it gets morning shade and afternoon sun. At the base of the cliff is a grove of trees that provide excellent shade and some protection from the wind. A short approach, pleasant setting, and fun, moderate climbing make for a very enjoyable experience.

Historically, this area has been used primarily for toproping, though setting trad anchors is quite challenging, particularly along the ledge 80 feet up the the right side of the cliff above the 5.5 terrain. Due to erosion concerns and related cost projections, fixed anchor permit applications were denied for many years. Since Mike Forcash put up Micro Pillar in 1990, 2022 was the first year that a fixed anchor permit was granted by the City of Rocks National Reserve, resulting in routes Petrodactyl and Whim-Z.

Erosion concern at the staging area: The 2022 fixed anchor permit for Petrodactyl and Whim-Z is subject to the following stipulation: "... If significant erosion is found to be occurring during monitoring of the staging areas at any time in the future, the route may be closed and reassessed for mitigation measures..."

Please help preserve this incredible and unique crag for future climbing by minimizing your impact to the loose ground surface among the trees. Please approach only from the Flaming Rock trail, just a few minutes walk from the trailhead. Please do not bring dogs to this crag, as the impact of dogs digging in the sloped, loose soil could result in crag closure in a very short time.

Getting There

Hike down the Flaming Rock trail, taking the right fork where the trail splits at the south end of Flaming Rock. Another 50 yards takes you to the north corner of Radicella Rock on your right. The first route is a short 5.11a named Micro Pillar. Other routes are farther south along the wall to the right. While walking along the base of the wall, use the footpath through the sagebrush about 30 feet out from the wall. This will help reduce erosion along the base of the wall.

Origin of the Name

What is the origin of the crag's unusual name? In 2023 I ran into Michael Radicella while climbing at Lost World and he told me the story. In 1990, Michael Radicella and Mike Forcash were climbing in The City. Mike Forcash was compiling a guidebook to the area and had just established the fun and stout Micro Pillar climb on an unnamed cliff. Mike challenged Michael that if Michael could onsight Micro Pillar, he (Mike) would name the cliff after him in the new guidebook. Michael powered through the onsight, so Mike kept his word and named the crag "Radicella".

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Radicella Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 26 ● Petrodactyl Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 32 ● Whim-Z Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 18 ● Micro Pillar Sport