Type: | Trad, 105 ft (32 m) |
FA: | Steve Nesland, Oct 2022 |
Page Views: | 466 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | snclimber on Oct 16, 2022 |
Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
NO DOGS. PLEASE! Digging dogs are worsening erosion in this area and may get this wonderful crag closed permanently.
A well-protected journey up a variety of great holds in a pleasant grove of trees just a few minute's walk from the trailhead. This route ascends a surprising variety of geology, from bucket pockets at the bottom, to linear holes to a few steep crimps in the middle to jugs and bulges up high.
At the halfway point crimp section, look 6 feet left to see two remarkable surprises.
Variation: After climbing the steep crimps at the halfway point (and placing pro there), traverse left on easy ground for 6 feet. This leads to the base of an excellent, easy crack (1" - 2") which you can follow for 30 feet. At the top of this section, please do not disturb the wildflowers growing out of the crack. Instead, just step up right onto the ramp and clip the last bolt of the main route.
Detailed protection beta: The route is mostly bolted, but does require trad protection at two locations. The midway point is a short, steep, tan wall with excellent crimps. Place pro in the 1-inch crack that forms the top of this wall. Six feet higher is a nice 2-inch horizontal crack. Also, near the top of the route, look for short, double cracks leading up left onto a ramp. Place a smallish cam and step up left onto the ramp. One more bolt on the ramp leads to the anchor. The anchor is two bolts with chains and mussy hooks. Thanks to the ASCA for the hooks.
Erosion concern in the staging area: This route was created in 2022 under a fixed anchor permit approved by the City of Rocks National Reserve. Erosion in the staging area is an important concern. The permit is subject to the following stipulation: "... If significant erosion is found to be occurring during monitoring of the staging areas at any time in the future, the route may be closed and reassessed for mitigation measures..."
Please help preserve this incredible and unique crag for future climbing by minimizing your impact to the loose ground surface among the trees. Please approach only from the Flaming Rock trail (just a few minutes walk from the trailhead), as detailed on the Radicella Rock page. Please do not bring dogs to this crag, as the impact of dogs digging in the sloped, loose soil could result in crag closure in a very short time.
Original Hardware installed in 2022:
- Bolts: Fixe Stainless Steel Wedge Bolt #340 Double Expansion 3/8" x 3 3/4", (17mm wrench). The bolt holes were drilled extra deep, to aid possible future route maintenance.
- Hangers: Fixe Stainless Steel 3/8" Powder Coat. Although these came factory-painted, to better match our rock color, I applied additional ultra flat camo paint, colored "sand" and with a misting of black specks.
- Chain: Everbuilt, grade 43, 3/8", zinc plated steel.
- Quick links: Climbtech 3/8" plated steel, 2200 lbs working load, (15mm wrench).
- Hooks: Climbtech mussy anchor hooks, provided by ASCA.
Location
From the point where the Flaming Rock trail meets the NW corner of Radicella Rock near the route Micro Pillar, traverse south, parallel to the crag on a footpath 30 feet out from the cliff. This leads to a low angle wall of dark rock at the right side of the cliff. Walk a short distance left along the base of the cliff to where it steepens at a mini alcove. Look for a steep ladder of fantastic pockets with a line of camouflaged bolts. This route starts 15 feet left of Whim-Z. Refer to the overview photo on the Radicella Rock page.
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