Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 13,736 total · 78/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 24, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

249 Opinions

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Batwings climbs the crack 15-20 feet right of Norma's book. The initial crack protects well and climbs easy, until you reach the horizontal crack. Place a cam in this crack and angle or traverse right. Aim for the crack just left of the roof. This crack takes hand jams like it was designes for them, and then turns vertical. It still takes the hand jams for a distance then thins out into 2 thin cracks. Take your pick, or use both and pop up onto the face. Find your moves and pick your protection well from this point as it is sparse.


2 ropes are needed for the rappel, unless you want to hike to the south of the formation for 2 1-rope rappels. The rack for this guy should be heavy on medium and small camming devices. A couple of long runners are needed also. Save a micro-cam (blue I believe) for the upper face.


John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
This is a great climb, one thing that sticks in my mind...when you leave the last vertical crack heading onto the upper headwall and face climbing, do NOT pass up any gear placements, the upper face is really runout and I remember thinking that a fall would be a really terrible thing at that point. Aug 4, 2004
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
The upper hand crack will leave a smile on face. The runout face at the top is easier if you head left and then back right to the bolt anchor. Aug 16, 2004
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Start up obvious crack line - if confident, skip placing gear to avoid rope drag further up. #1 cam at small roof, clip fixed red tri-cam with long runner than move out right to clip the lone bolt. After that the crack is obvious and straight forward. Many of the pods are pseudo large so bring stuff to 3.5 if you've got it. Small to Medium sized nuts work like a charm in the upper section for your last ditch effort to protect before the run out to the top. Take the path of least resistance up and left to reach the summit then go right to the chain anchors and nice solution pocket for belay.

Very fun and highly recommended. Whether you're a seasoned climber or just starting 5.8's this is an excellent route! Enjoy.


fixed tri-cam, 1 bolt courtesy of batwings direct, sm/med nuts, 1" - 3.5" cams. chain anchors Aug 14, 2007
Portland, OR
rpc   Portland, OR
Fixed tricam was no longer there. I don't think you can easily clip the top bolt on the Direct easily from this one - my wife led it and the bolt was waaaay out of reach (below & right). I'd guess this would be pretty exciting if .8's your limit. Great route! Jun 23, 2008
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
The BEST climb I did at the City last Saturday! Use long runners on the start, and move left to get up on the run-out slab at the top. Once you're on it, it's easy. There are pro placements about 10-12 ft. above the beginning of the slab, but I skipped them because the climbing was easy and I really wanted those chains! Jul 16, 2008
Ben Folsom  
Yeah, this really is a great route. One of the best for the grade for sure at the City. Jul 18, 2008
Robert MacKinnon  
An amazing route with lots of variety! I don't think that the route is runout. Just before climbing the face at the top you can get several good pieces in if you want. I placed 2 med to small nuts, then 8 feet higher you can get good cams in (yellow and orange TCU's). From there it's maybe 10-15 feet of positive 5.4 face to the top. Jun 30, 2009
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
It is true rope drag is a non-issue if you can wait to put in gear and/or back-clean until the first bulgy move (with 48" runner) and a 24" sling on your second piece to protect the traverse move. Aug 27, 2009
Ted Farley
Bozeman, Mt
Ted Farley   Bozeman, Mt
the face traverse might make a 5.8 leader hesitate a bit. i certaintly whined a lot. get creative with gear in the huge pocket before traversing, i used my blue/yellow metolious offset. Jul 24, 2010
Olympia, WA
Drederek   Olympia, WA
Classic route, I'd highly recommend not clipping the bolt, I've seen people get in trouble doing that. You won't want any rope drag at the top. I got a nice metolius orange fcu in at the top of the crack. Sep 20, 2010
Christian Weaver  
Enjoyable climb. Worthy of City of Rocks. May 30, 2012
Killer crack! Enjoy the steep slab of Batwings Direct to avoid ropedrag. Aug 25, 2012
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
The upper crack on this climb is some of the best and most exciting jamming I've done at the city. This route takes all sorts of technique. The crux for me was traversing right from the first crack to the upper dihedral. Mar 17, 2013
I took a single rack and used most of it. Used 6 nuts, especially on the upper sections where the small cracks make for great passive pro options.

Possible to rap with a single 70m rope into Norma's Book, be mindful of your landing spot and the ends of the rope. From the slab it is then an easy down climb to skier's right of where you started. Head towards the trees growing out of the rock. Jun 3, 2013
K Baumgartner
K Baumgartner  
The traverse was tailor made for a pink tricam. Runout slab climbing keeps it real. Used a brassy wire at the top of the crack before the head games begin. Danced around after that until I found the mantle that was the gateway to the top. Definitely heady.

Rapped with a single 70m from the shuts about 50 feet right of the top. Jun 28, 2013
Bishop, CA
  5.9- PG13
DennisL   Bishop, CA
  5.9- PG13
I found the traverse between cracks to be quite spicy. Be solid at the grade and creative with your gear! May 11, 2014
Jake Nelson
  5.8 PG13
Jake Nelson  
  5.8 PG13
Any pro you place in the crack before the first face section will need long runners to reduce rope drag higher up, same with the badly placed bolt (if you decide to clip it, which I would advise against).

The hand crack is beautiful, but the face above is a little scary with sparse pro and a long runout to the anchor.

Don't forget a tagline, and rap off quick, there's always someone waiting on this classic line! Jun 6, 2014
Los Alamos, NM
SThal   Los Alamos, NM
On repeat this didn't seem so bad with small purple and blue metolius cams up top. A 70m (not sure on 60) will get you down from the anchor climber's right, about 30 feet from the Batwings anchor, and the scramble to get there is easy across the ridgetop and down. Or an 80m will allow you rap from the Batwings chains with some easy down climbing, but maybe not lower off and toprope. Nov 9, 2014
Incredible route. The traverse takes a BD .4 perfectly from what I remember. Sling it long and dont be tempted to clip the bolt out right, just climb straight up to the next crack.

I also went right at the top of the second crack, found a nice undercling that took a BD .5 perfectly. I believe I ran it out to the anchor after that. Feb 12, 2015
Double ropes work great to keep rope drag down. Jun 17, 2018
Nate Flink
Minneapolis, MN
Nate Flink   Minneapolis, MN
Outstanding route. Led Oct. 4 '18 with double ropes. Used my orange rope on the first crack and switched to the blue at the bolt. Zero rope drag. I needed both to rap anyhow. Doubles rack up to #2 plus a #3 and #4. The #4 went in about 20 feet up the initial crack as the first piece. Placed a #.5 at the first crux traverse. Found good feet a little lower on the traverse. Runout up high is no big deal, great holds further left. The true crux was exiting the second crack up top where it gets thin IMHO. Super Fun! Oct 9, 2018