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Routes in Animal Cracker Rock

Animal Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Columbine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Greg Lowe & Dick Dorworth 60s
Page Views: 9,855 total, 64/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on May 20, 2005
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


115 Opinions

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Description

Animal Cracker is the prominent flake leading into an offwidth on the Southwest side of Animal Cracker Rock. Start up the finger crack in the flake, traverse a bit right to a hand crack, then follow the flake up and right. Finally grunt up the offwidth through a roof to a set of chain anchors. Rap from here or continue for another pitch.

Pitch 2 angles left into a hand crack. Climb this, which seams up quickly for a runout, yet easy finish on jugs to the top of the formation. Gear anchor needed, with a walkoff to the climber's right.

Protection

Finger sized gear up through #5 C4 (or 4.5 camalot) for the first pitch. Hand sized pieces for the second pitch. Walk off.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
A bit thuggy at the crux, but all in good fun. Jun 16, 2016
zach cook
Boise, ID
zach cook   Boise, ID
Good rock, good location and great climbing! Be careful up top of the OW, left side of Ow on the face is an exfoliation flake that makes for a great jug but is quite loose, it wiggled pretty good for me. Otherwise everything else is solid. Jul 30, 2015
SThal
Logan, UT
5.10+ PG13
SThal   Logan, UT
5.10+ PG13
One #4 and one #5 was enough for the OW (french free). This may feel like 10a to an 'offwidth climber'. It felt much harder than thin slice or bloody fingers to me. At the roof, the flake is pretty close below you - don't blow it there, even with good gear. I would have hit it if I'd fallen there. Nov 9, 2014
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
Do it!

Used 1 #4 and 1 #5 for the top. Aug 17, 2013
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
If interested in topped out this climb I recommend going to climbers right off the p1 belay into the crack labeled as "Unknown 10?" in the guide book. It provides a fun 5.6 hand crack to the top. Jun 23, 2013
Eric Haye
Boulder
  5.10a
Eric Haye   Boulder
  5.10a
Great route and I don't think it sees much action for some reason a my belayer stated that debris was coming down during the climb.

The start demands your attention and focus. Better to stay low when moving right after your first piece to gain the next crack.

I only brought 1 #4 BD and wasted a lot of enery placing nuts in the crack. Bring 2 and leave the #5 down below and you'll be dandy. Awesome jug hold for pulling the roof can be found on the left just above your head as you begin. Sep 3, 2012
Wooderson
Seattle, WA
Wooderson   Seattle, WA
Pitch 2 is chossy and probably worth passing.

A #5 Camalot would help with the gnarly off width, but two #4's made it work for me.

Save some strength for the roof, it's really more of an endurance test than any single hard move. Oct 16, 2010
Brian B Ballard
Laramie, WY
Brian B Ballard   Laramie, WY
Wonderful route. I liked walking a 4.5 up the OW and then a .75 before cramming around. May 16, 2010
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.9
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.9
FUN, FUN, FUN and worth the wait at the base. This route provides clean cracks which are easily protectable. I'm a girl with poor off-width skills and I can tell you none were needed at the top. Standard climbing technique with a single ankle scrapping heal toe for one move only. Holds appear all the way making this an enjoyable route.

Susan Aug 14, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
You might be able to protect the final crux moves with some RPs instead of a giant cam. I left mine on the ground. A single set of old style camalots to a #4 will protect this route well until the exit moves. If you like to sew it up, add an extra #1 or #2. A #6 friend or maybe small nuts will give you pro at waist for the fun exit moves. Sep 20, 2006