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Routes in Elephant Rock - North

Beware of Nesting Egos T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Just Say Go T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prepare for Soaring Seagulls T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Strawberry Jam T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where Egos Sore T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Stan Caldwell, Dan Sperlock, 1984
Page Views: 7,664 total, 55/month
Shared By: Jeff G. on Jun 23, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

This is an incredible mixed route to the right of The Pygmees got stoned. It has three widely spaced bolts but you will also need a good assortment of gear. It is sustained with three pretty difficult sections with the most difficult of the three being at the end. Great movement and beautiful features the whole way. I think this route is a classic and one of the best I've done at the city.

Location

Starts right of the pygmees got stoned. There is an obvious flake about 15 feet up that you undercling and jam around the left side of to get onto the face. There are three bolts connecting smaller finger cracks on the upper wall.

Protection

3 bolts. A #2 and #3 Camalot for the beginning crack. A full set of stoppers and smaller cams up to a 0.5 Camalot for the upper sections between the bolts. Fixed anchor at top which is set back over a lip making a top rope run a little rough, best to sling it out for the TR then rap when done.
Samuel Clairmont
Mililani, Hi
  5.11b
Samuel Clairmont   Mililani, Hi
  5.11b
No need for PG-13 rating. green c3 protects between the flake and first bolt. gear is all bomber Jul 4, 2017
David Champion
Centennial, CO
  5.11b PG13
David Champion   Centennial, CO
  5.11b PG13
This route definitely falls into the oh-shit category, and is the quintessential test of the well-rounded trad leader.

It demands a range of skills from overhead jamming to precise footwork on tiny edges, careful and effective placement/runnering of critical pro, and a cool head pulling hard moves well above gear. Jun 18, 2017
Raddam6
Salt Lake
  5.11b
Raddam6   Salt Lake
  5.11b
Best climb I've done at the city. One of the best pitches I have climbed across America. PG-13 is ridiculous. The protection is literally 100% bomberthe entire way over reasonable, super clean falls. If you call this spicy, you can throw away your dreams of ever being a half decent trad climber. Jun 15, 2016
Derek West Newman
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11b
Derek West Newman   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11b
What an incredible route, equipped with a full arsenal of wide layback, slab, technical face, and finger crack techniques all combined into one. I loved every minute of this. Gear goes the whole way too, although it is tricky. Here's what I used.
1) Camalot #5 with a long runner right when I reached the wide flake
2) Camalot #2 with a sling right before I pulled the wide flake
3) X4 .3 with a sling halfway between wide flake and bolt
4) Bolt
5) Red BD stopper with QD at start of finger crack
6) X4 .4 with QD at end of finger crack
7) Bolt
8) Bolt
9) Yellow stopper with sling halfway between final bolt and anchors
Sep 15, 2015
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
 
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
 
This is an amazing pitch. Although, I didn't find it to be as spicy as many people had led me to believe. It just seemed like normal City of Rocks climbing. No hands rests before all of the hard parts! Jun 25, 2015
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
Wow, what an awesome route! Every move is memorable.

Green alien can protect the moves from the flake to the first bolt. May 30, 2015
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
 
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
 
Great climb! One of my favorite City routes to date. I felt like the gear was pretty sketch after the flake, but before the first bolt, but the climbing is not too hard there. Fun, Memorable movement, really varied. Highly recommended. Jul 21, 2014
Max Bechdel
Jackson, WY
Max Bechdel   Jackson, WY
Chains aren't over the lip, they're fine for TRing now.

I heard different opinions on gear, here's what I used in order (BD cams): #3 (24" runner), #2 (24" runner), red C3, bolt, yellow C3, .4, bolt, bolt, .3, chains.

Quality route! May 5, 2014
Rob T
 
Rob T  
 
Unfortunately(imho), the anchor was moved down a few feet. not a huge difference, but i always felt a little on edge mantling the final jugs to get to the chains. they're now located just below so you can clip while hanging from the jugs. mainly noted b/c it makes Guy's comments above as well as comments on slings in initial description somewhat irrelevant. Apr 2, 2013
kevinhansen
Albion Idaho
 
kevinhansen   Albion Idaho
 
The last ten feet I have to dyno for the big hold just down and right of the chains. Then again I'm short. This route has it all! Everything from thin fingers, big slab friction, full horizontal fisting in a roof/crack (Start), and a crazy layback at the top. I LOVE THIS ROUTE! Jan 19, 2013
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.11b PG13
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.11b PG13
It is possible to climb right at the last bolt to make this an excellent 5.11a. The left variation is still a full value 5.11b. Jun 13, 2012
Deniz
Boise
Deniz   Boise
This route is just frigging superb. It doesnt look that varied from the ground, but the flake start, finger crack, hard traverses with super sporty moves... It is just awesome. Feb 19, 2012
CalmAdrenaline
SL,UT
 
CalmAdrenaline   SL,UT
 
"This thing is not like oh fuck, but definitely oh shit" - Advice I got from another climber while passing the first bolt. I'd say it was pretty spot on.. steller route. Sep 6, 2011
Ben Folsom
  5.11b
Ben Folsom  
  5.11b
This is a fantastic route! Good gear, a little bit hard to read, and super fun! I did this for the first time last weekend and it will for sure be one I go back to from time to time. Aug 21, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.11b PG13
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.11b PG13
This may be the best mixed route at the City. This route has a little bit of everything from roof moves, scary traverses, runout face climbing, a fun finger crack, and a pumpy finish.

There are some large runouts (~15ft) above good gear. Bring gear up to a .75 camalot for the upper section, while a #2,3, and 3.5 will protect the roof section.

Sep 20, 2006