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Routes in Flaming Rock

City Girls S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Firewater S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Quest for Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Radachello T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raindance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reservations T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Smoke Signal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tail Feather S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tither's Jam T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tribal Boundaries S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Sperlock
Page Views: 17,735 total, 117/month
Shared By: kBobby Hanson on Jun 26, 2005
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

Steep edging through patina, with a slopery finish.

This route is on the northern end of the west face of Flaming Rock. Traverse the ledge in from the right. There is a bolt for the belayer at waist level. There are two 5.10a routes here. The left, all bolt, line is Tribal Boundaries. The right route requires some small gear.

The first couple of hangers are homemade jobs, the rest are factory.

Protection

~11 or 12 draws including the anchors.
Max Shaffer
  5.10-
Max Shaffer  
  5.10-
Very reminiscent of the climbing on the Black Velvet Wall in Red Rock. Think Prince of Darkness, but a whole lot shorter. I feel that a route needs more variation to be considered classic. Good intro to the grade though. Jun 12, 2017
GilaShot
Western Antarctic, New Engl…
  5.10b
GilaShot   Western Antarctic, New Engl…
  5.10b
10b Apr 2, 2017
Dr. Long Arm
  5.10b
Dr. Long Arm  
  5.10b
AWESOME route, and one of the most aesthetic lines at the city. I'd call it easily 10b, but if you have strong fingers it might feel easier. Crimpy and balancy. The move onto the slabby section at the top is a little surprising but then the last couple moves are right there. The opening easier moves are fantastic. Apr 27, 2014
Skat B
Down Rodeo
  5.10a/b
Skat B   Down Rodeo
  5.10a/b
Probably the sickest and most beautiful 5.10- that I have ever climbed. Very well protected although one of the bolts is a spinner. Awesome!! Easy onsight!! Aug 26, 2013
slim

  5.10a
slim    
  5.10a
super fun route, seemed very well bolted. the more difficult sections have a bolt right there, and easier more positive sections they are a little more spaced out, but still appropriate for a 10a climber. top is well protected and fun. Aug 5, 2013
Pink Thunder
Lakewood
  5.10b
Pink Thunder   Lakewood
  5.10b
Sweet route. Worth a wait, if there's a line. Jun 10, 2013
Lindsey Tema Bath
Reno, NV
  5.10a/b
Lindsey Tema Bath   Reno, NV
  5.10a/b
so awesome! i love this route so much its so proud and impressive! hate having to come back down! sucky down repel from raindance kinda though! Oct 4, 2012
Drederek
  5.10a/b
Drederek  
  5.10a/b
Compared to other 10a face climbs in the city I think Tribal is a just a bit harder. Was a little disappointed that the last bolt was there right after the last of the difficulties. I'm guessing it one that was added later. Sep 16, 2012
Note that you can climb up Raindance and then walk over to this climb's anchors to rappel and toprope. Sep 1, 2012
Finn the Human
The Land of Ooo
5.10b
Finn the Human   The Land of Ooo
5.10b
Definitely gets thin! Felt harder than .10a to me, but maybe that's just because of the exposure. By far one of the coolest rock faces I've ever layed eyes on! Sep 12, 2011
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.10a
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.10a
Consensus here has it at 5.10-. I think its 5.10a (climbed it not long after it was put up, prior to several bolts added, and several times since).

Kind of the neat thing about this website is that folks get to vote on the rating.

Ratings are pretty subjective, but, for comparison, I think Double Vision is harder. 'Bout the same as "N and C" on Decadent. Easier than Fall Line. On par with Acid Rain. On par with Just Say Go and Pygmies. Easier than Stan's Roof.

Cheers. Aug 6, 2009
Derek Newman
Holladay, UT
  5.10b
Derek Newman   Holladay, UT
  5.10b
This climb is now rated a 5.10 B. Aug 3, 2009
Derek Newman
Holladay, UT
  5.10b
Derek Newman   Holladay, UT
  5.10b
I absolutely love this climb; it was my favorite climb I've done in the City- though, I've only been there once. I was so intimidated when I saw it. The climb itself is really technical and requires a large amount of balancing. I fell once on the crux (past the fourth bolt I believe) because I went too far right. Aug 2, 2009
Ben2
Bend, OR
  5.10-
Ben2   Bend, OR
  5.10-
Fantastic Route! Great moves to the top, and the slabby stuff at the end makes you think a little bit but much easier than some of the other routes with similar ratings. If you have the time (and who doesn't), belay the second from the top; the view and atmosphere are worth it. Aug 24, 2008
tom selleck  
 
The setting and position are what make this route a classic. Jul 30, 2008
John Bradford
Yellowstone National Park
 
John Bradford   Yellowstone National Park
 
Climbed this on Saturday, as good as ever, though the 6th or 7th bolt was a spinner (can't remember which) requiring one extra mini move to nail the bastard. May 12, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10a
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10a
Let the record show G.O that it's 8 bolts for the route, 1 for the belayer and 2 for the top. Making it.......11 total.

Now take that!

Great route even in full sun. Lot's of varnished patina with "what the hell is this" slab at the top.

Susan Aug 14, 2007
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
I would agree that this is one of the best 5.10's in the park. It's my personal favorite. Jul 28, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.10a
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.10a
I might be convinced its the best 5.10a in the City. But, I can think of a couple of 5.10's in the Castle that seem at least as good (Shock and Awe, Red Rib). Dec 5, 2006
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I nominate this as the best bolted 5.10 in the US. Who's with me? Dec 4, 2006
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.10a/b
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.10a/b
This route is super fun... Dec 2, 2006
koji t
 
koji t  
 
Great stuff!! hit it up in the AM if its hot out. Jul 17, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Fun climbing on good rock but it wasn't as good as I was lead to believe. Still a route worth doing and the Flaming Rock area is a nice escape from the crowds of the more roadside crags. Feb 22, 2006
David Shiembob
slc, ut
  5.10a
David Shiembob   slc, ut
  5.10a
This thing is so beautiful and classic. It was one of my first 10 leads and was and absolute thrill. Jul 5, 2005