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Gandy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech
Page Views: 1,370
Submitted By: Locker on Oct 24, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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Lisa Pritchett leading Gandy

Description 

Gandy is the small obvious spire in front of and just below Dos Chichis. This climbs the left arete on the formation past six bolts and a 1" piece between the first and second bolt. A fun and worthwhile route to do if in the area.

Protection 

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Easy scramble/downclimb off the backside.


Photos of Gandy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lisa Pritchett leading Gandy
Lisa Pritchett leading Gandy
Rock Climbing Photo: Gandy is a nice short lead (my first in Josh). Dec...
BETA PHOTO: Gandy is a nice short lead (my first in Josh). Dec...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chad Parker leading Gandy 5.9
Chad Parker leading Gandy 5.9
Rock Climbing Photo: "Gandy". Photo by Blitzo.
"Gandy". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse leading Gandy for a warmup
Jesse leading Gandy for a warmup
Rock Climbing Photo: Gandy
Gandy
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Tennessee enjoys the view
Tony Tennessee enjoys the view
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay station for Gandy (5.9) is kind of over this...
Belay station for Gandy (5.9) is kind of over this...
Rock Climbing Photo: gandy
gandy

Comments on Gandy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Nov 2, 2005

for those wishing not to lead this (If there are any of you), it can be easily accessed from the backside with a few 4th class moves... and then TR'd...
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Feb 21, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I wouldn't call it an easy walk off. A fun route with a tricky finish getting over the overlap (5.9 one move). Well protected. You also have the choice of ignoring a couple of bolts and placing natural protection, but who can ignore a clip? Worth LEADING if in the area, and you've done the other face routes.
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Dec 20, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun movement, but a few too many loose plates for my taste. And I agree it's an easy walkoff.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Dec 27, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Easy scramble/downclimb sounds more like it. It's not Class 1.
By Mark van Eijk
Jan 7, 2011

interesting, balance-y route, hollow flakes and loose edges can be disconcerting at times. Fun mantel to top out and great views
By Matt Michael
From: Oceanside, CA
Nov 16, 2013

Fun, short route. Got a really good .75 in between the first and second bolts, though it's totally optional.
By Jacob Zehnder
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 20, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Led for my group to set a TR. Decent number of bolts for J-tree. The first bolt is within easy reach but over a small chasm. The plates are a bit small and occasionally loose which can make this a sketchy lead if you're not used to plates/crimps. Crux for me was getting past the top cap of the tower but it looked like you could skirt right to avoid and then come back left for the final bolt and anchors. Fun route though, and a far enough approach that it keeps the crowds away. Scenic views from the top!

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