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Whiskey Peak
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Unsorted Routes:

Frogland 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 700'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George & Joanne Urioste, Mike Gilbert
Page Views: 37,931
Submitted By: Scott Conner on Mar 10, 2001

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Steve going under the Chockstone

Description 

A great route! And VERY popular. Start early.

For the approach, take the trail that skirts the pink cliff band on the left. Work your way around the cliff band and to the right. Look for a huge roof capping a large slab and make your way to the crack on the right side of this feature. Scramble up a few 4th-class sections to the a nice terrace and the beginning of a LF corner/crack that has a few bolts (why?)...

P1: 5.7, 150' Climb a crack in a block (awkward) to gain the left-facing corner/crack. Climb this for a nice long pitch and belay on the second of two big ledges. Tree anchor.

P2: 5.7, 150' Work right from the belay and climb a lower-angle crack in a LF corner to a ledge. From here (a) Make a few exciting moves out left and up a crack to another ledge. Or (b) continue straight up through a wide overhanging flake/crack section to a small ledge.

P3: 5.6, 100' Work out left into a nice right-facing dihedral, up this, then out right through a small overhang and belay at the base of an obtuse corner with some thin face moves to the right.

The next 3 pitches are PG so be ready for some spice!

P4: 5.8, 140' Climb out left of the thin corner on small edges and thin pro. Gain a decent crack that climbs up to the right side of the giant roof clipping an old pin along the way. Check out the slabby leftward traverse under the roof which marks the crux of the route. Make the delicate moves across to a thin crack and up about 40' to a small belay stance that takes 1.5-3" gear. Awesome!

P5: 5.8, 130' Make some PG face moves up to a bolt. Climb up left to a huge chockstone and tunnel behind it. Work up and right into a right-facing corner and up to a ledge with tricky belay gear.

P6: 5.6, 160'? Work out right onto the face and let the better gear lead your way up to a small bulge at the top. Turn the bulge and head up 5.2 terrain to the top. This pitch is broken up into 2 pitches in the book but we've always done it as one with a 60m rope.

Descent: Follow the cairns. Pick your way over the peak and down into the gully. Go down the white rock on the left side of the gully. Take the gully down and to the left and contour around the mountain and back to the base of the climb.


Protection 

Pro to 3".



Photos of Frogland Slideshow Add Photo
Christa checking out and approaching the chockstone on pitch 5.
Christa checking out and approaching the chockston...
Another chockstone picture
Another chockstone picture
Looking down through the chockstone on Frogland, this pitch is a lot of fun, and you once past it, you can use the chockstone as natural pro!
Looking down through the chockstone on Frogland, t...
Clay approaching the huge chockstone on Frogland
Clay approaching the huge chockstone on Frogland
The coolest anchor ever on the top of the last pitch.
BETA PHOTO: The coolest anchor ever on the top of the last pit...
the route
BETA PHOTO: the route
Mike leading up the arete after a the traverse under the large roof on pitch 4.
Mike leading up the arete after a the traverse und...
Starting up Pitch 4.
Starting up Pitch 4.
Scoping the rest of the route on a beautiful Vegas day...
Scoping the rest of the route on a beautiful Vegas...
looking down at the pitch after the chockstone....
looking down at the pitch after the chockstone....
Frogland buttress.
BETA PHOTO: Frogland buttress.
Brett cruxes on Frogland.
Brett cruxes on Frogland.
Working up the arete just after the hand traverse under the roof
BETA PHOTO: Working up the arete just after the hand traverse ...
Obi follows up what we made the first pitch.  The recommended pitch is to use the trees to the right of him, however starting from the white column with a 60m rope you can make it to another nice belay ledge higher up that takes nice 2 and 0.75 cams.
Obi follows up what we made the first pitch. The ...
Taking a look before heading up the arete.  This pitch and the one following (chokstone pitch) were my two favorite pitches of the climb!
Taking a look before heading up the arete. This p...
Funky moves outa the stem box.
Funky moves outa the stem box.
chockstone pitch
chockstone pitch
A pic of the really nice fourth pitch of Frogland.  Mark is traversing under the giant roof, which is probably the route's crux.
A pic of the really nice fourth pitch of Frogland....
Jascha approaching the first belay
Jascha approaching the first belay
green = original route <br />yellow = variation
BETA PHOTO: green = original route
yellow = variation
Bighorn Sheep on the approach trail.
BETA PHOTO: Bighorn Sheep on the approach trail.
working the stem on P1
working the stem on P1
Ted going up the corner/crack on the first pitch.
Ted going up the corner/crack on the first pitch.
Jascha on P2
Jascha on P2
Chunneling
Chunneling
the 5.4R pitch per Supertopo (doubtful on both the 5.4 and the R)
BETA PHOTO: the 5.4R pitch per Supertopo (doubtful on both the...
Ready to chunnel
Ready to chunnel
The view from the belay on the giant chockstone. Shot by Jacob Colella
The view from the belay on the giant chockstone. S...
Deep chunnel
Deep chunnel
Easter 2013- Frogs low, bunnies high. Serious fun.
Easter 2013- Frogs low, bunnies high. Serious fun.
The parking area from the top of frogland.
The parking area from the top of frogland.
heather digging the route....
heather digging the route....
Andrea belaying Elena near the top of P4 as viewed from Bourbon St.
Andrea belaying Elena near the top of P4 as viewed...
Sarah finishing up the fun corner after the roof on Pitch 4.
Sarah finishing up the fun corner after the roof o...
Jeff Creamer on P2 of Frogland
Jeff Creamer on P2 of Frogland
The view from Frogland,pitch one.
The view from Frogland,pitch one.
Comments on Frogland Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 10, 2014
By John Peterson
Mar 24, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a pretty good route description - I'll add a few tidbits to it. The second pitch is often divided into two halves - there is a good ledge atop the left facing layback. As described, there are two routes from this ledge - one to the left has a bolt just past this ledge and the pro is a little sketchy but not too bad.

The first pitch is possibly the crux of the climb - I'd call it 5.8 and it's more continuous than the other cruxes.

P4 and P5 are probably a bit shorter than described.

The move under the chockstone is the crux for tall climbers!

Stay left on the slabs when possible during the descent - you'll see cairns both on the left and in the main gully.

All if the belay ledges except the one atop P4 are pretty big.

Definitely the best 5.8 mutipitch in Vegas.

John

By Eric and Lucie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 26, 2004

Why the bolts on the first pitch??? There is a bomber crack right there... I cannot remember if those bolts have been there for a long time... don't remember them back when I did the route many years ago. Have they been added recently? Why? There seems to be new unnecessary bolts appearing on existing routes throughout the area. Is it just me or is this really happening?

By Edward Jenner
Mar 29, 2005
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

My first RR route. At the time I thought it was more like 7, but maybe 8 compared to other RR 8's

In any case a lot of fun. We traversed at lot lower on Pitch 4 than shown in the picture - to the base of the crack on the left and it seemed very reasonable.

The rap bolts had been removed from the hangers on all pitches.

By marc rosenthal
From: San Antonio, TX
Feb 14, 2006

Probably the greatest trad route I have ever led. The best way to do this is take one rope-that way you are committed to go all the way. To me the 4th pitch felt like the true crux of the climb. This was based on traversing under the roof up high. Very committing crossing that smooth slab.

Make certain to belay right after the chockstone. Continuing into the easy chimney brings on serious rope drag.

By Dusty Cams
Mar 6, 2006

This route can be done in 4 pitches easily with a 60M rope--the face climbing on the last pitch felt harder than 5.6.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 24, 2006

Yesterday we had a rather remarkable experience on this route. I have always seen it very crowded, and once tried to start at 2PM in the hope that it would have emptied out. This attempt only got up the first 2 pitches before we bumped into the conga-line and rapped off as we were unprepared to bivy.

Yesterday morning we drove into the Black Velvet parking lot at the relatively tardy hour of 7AM to see not a single vehicle. We spooked a herd of bighorn sheep on the approach. I was leading the second pitch, and the canyon was still very quiet although we had noticed the arrival of a few cars. My partner Todd Pett heard a strange sound down below, and eventually realized it was frogs. It is my understanding that this sound was the reason for the name of this route. I regret that I was too focussed on the climbing to hear them.

We found the route a lot of fun, and not entirely obvious. There are a lot of options, especially around pitches 2-3, and we wandered around a bit in this area. The temps were chilly for this time of year, but nothing a few layers couldn't solve. There was another party 2-3 pitches behind us, but other than that we had the route to ourselves. Nice route!

By Jim Matt
From: Indianapolis, IN
May 1, 2006

Climbed this on 4/17 (my partner Gina led all of the pitches). I thought it was a great route...lots of different options especially up high. We started around 1 PM and had the route to ourselves on a rather cool and windy day (except for Alex and Greg, another party of two with us who climbed just ahead of us). I thought the crux was the face climbing to the bolt on the 5th (chockstone) pitch. I wasn't too much of a fan climbing above this pitch...but the rest of it was spectacular. By the way, I dropped my camera at the chockstone...check the forums for contact info if you found it.

By raygay
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
May 1, 2006

As my first 5.8 lead, I agree the short face climb on tiny smooth nubs to the bolt on the 5th pitch was the crux. But my partner led the delicate traverse below the roof on the 4th pitch, so I really don't know which of the two is truly the harder lead. I could not get past the chockstone without removing my day pack and hanging it from my harness. That added to the thrill of leading the 5th pitch. Belaying on top of the chockstone seemed a good idea. Since all of the hangers on the rappel bolts have been removed, rapping off the route will require leaving some gear. This route was very crowded on Saturday, 29 Apr 06. Lots of waiting involved. Plan to be patient and courteous on this route anytime there are more than three or four parties.

By Ian Wolfe
From: Fayetteville, NC
Mar 9, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

After the 5.8 crux traverse, there is an option to take an insecure finger crack with poor, sandy feet to the left instead of the large main crack to the right. I felt this variation was solid 5.10, and the party below me, after climbing it, thought 10c seemed to fit the bill. I'd go with at least 10b. It's pretty fun, and a nice challenge, especially if you are like me and slipped off the 5.8 slab and are looking to patch your tattered honor...

We also traversed off to the left before continuing up on pitch 3 (I think?). I believe this follows the route of the first ascent, which is different from what is described in most guidebooks. This made for a slightly more adventurous climb, with a cool belay in a cave.

By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 12, 2007

Further on the thin crack leading to the chockstone: I had the opportunity to ask George Urioste why they drilled the bolt on the face when the crack was right there. They had climbed the crack, of course, and figured it was good solid old-school 5.9 (no sandbag, there-- I agree). But George always had a thought for the community. He figured that a knucklebuster 5.9 fingercrack was out of place on what was otherwise a pretty relaxed 5.8 route. By adding the bolt-protected balance moves to the right of the corner he thought the route would appeal to a very broad cross-section of climbers. History has proved him correct, and the route is one of the most popular at Red Rock.

By CO_Michael
Aug 8, 2008

I LOVE this route. If I had to choose only one route to do for the rest of my life, this would be it. Totally belay on top of the chockstone, it is a great belay.

By Doug Foust
From: Henderson, Nevada
Nov 7, 2008

Great route that lives up to the hype. In the offwidth crack at the top of pitch #2 watch out for the loose block at the top of the pillar in the crack. Today it was marked in chalk with 3 x's

By Steve Blevins
From: Central Coast, CA
Apr 18, 2009

All right, here's the skinny. Climbed Frogland today, I lead first 3 pitches, my partner, Marc Jenson the last. He climbed it some years ago, on sight for me. We used my 60m rope.

Pitch 1: I climbed to a good flat ledge with fixed cam. On the wall to the climber's right were 2 bolts wo/ hangers. above was a rock marked in chalk with 2 x's (Is this where the beer gets its name?) Partner had to simulclimb ~10' to the next ledge.

Pitch 2: Climbed to below roof on large ledge. Protection possibilities not generous. No simulclimbing, ~200'

Pitch 3: Climbed to good ledge above chockstone. No simulclimbing, ~200'

Pitch 4: to the top, maybe 150'

By Moonfri
Oct 5, 2009

A good route, all loose blocks are marked with big white X's. A fun intro to Red Rocks. Careful, crack eats cams. Many cams are fixed up this climb right now as of 10/05/2009.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 6, 2009

climbed the route today- as usual, the second pitch is nearly fixed with cams- which is nice if you wanna climb fast. this route is good evidence that many folks who climb it are still new enough that they need to learn to sling their pro properly. proper slinging = no fixed gear.

on another note- the 'loose block' below the chockstone marked with an 'X' is NOT loose at all, feel free to use it. actually, i cant remember a single loose block at all on the route.

as usual, the route is a good one- very enjoyable, albeit fairly cold for this time of year!

By Richard Shore
Jan 6, 2010

Climbed this route on Halloween 2009. Great fun! Pitch 2 is littered with fixed cams, maybe 8 or so. Could be a booty pirates dream. At least one fixed cam per pitch. Hangerless bolts abound at the belay stations.

By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Apr 1, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Start early, take your place, and inch along in the conga line. Or? Jump on Bourbon St. just next door for an equally fun (but a bit different) day.

Try taking Rain Dance (not listed on this site) as an alternative, 5.10 start to Frogland, just 20ft left of the traditional start. A few bolts and a few sketch-master, flex-madness flakes that you don't want to fall on later, and you just might beat that first no-breakfast team slogging up FL. (I think I've seen Rain Dance graded at 10d in older books, but the Handren guide probably has it right at 10a. So much for MY ego...)

Do start early, though. Can't tell you how many days hiking out BVC we could see headlamps crawling their way down the shit decent long after the sun said good-bye...

By Tradoholic
May 14, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

At the belay ledge below the traverse under the roof I traversed over 30ft and joined Bourbon St to avoid the HUGE bottle neck of Noobs trying to battle the chock stone. Good choice!

By cassondra
From: las vegas, NV
Aug 4, 2010

Out today early, nobody else here the whole day. First 2 pitches were in the sun, but pretty comfortable. The rest of the route was in the shade. A frozen 2 liter bottle of water helps keep the approach comfortable when carried close to the body.

By Heath Alexander
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Mar 14, 2011

I lost a pair of sunglasses on this climb a week ago. I had a brand new pair of Oakleys in a blue sunglass case on my harness. As I was burrowing under the chockstone the strap on the case broke and the case fell about 500 feet down. I looked all over the base but couldn't find them. Ironically I had just bought them the day before, and my wife told me not to spend so much money on sunglasses because I might drop them off a cliff...

I think they might have survived the fall, so if anyone finds them I would love to have them back, if nothing else because of the cool story. Will reimburse you for shipping costs. My email is heathbar85@gmail.com. I presume they are somewhere under the great white roof.

Thanks!

By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Mar 17, 2011

Did this climb on march 14 and it was amazing. the chock stone pitch was spectacular. Don't belay right above the chockstone though. you'll have rope drag up the final pitch if you do. Pop out and climb up maybe 10 feet and there is a nice pod with awesome pro, belay there and it'll make the last pitch much more enjoyable. Also on the last pitch we didn't climb the 5.4 face to the right. Just went straight up the right facing corner to the left, runout but fun and easy.
Make sure you know how to set up gear anchors and can do it fast because the anchors aren't bolted and you'll have people behind you waiting.

By Jon P
From: Duluth, MN
Nov 27, 2011

This is a nice route for those newer to multiclimbing and is a good warmup for harder climbing in red rocks.

From our experience:

Pitch 1 and 2: Straight forward and nice.

Pitch 3 and 4: We missed the belay ledge after pitch three. Pitch three is short (maybe 90-100 feet). Climb over the bulge on the far left side after the rap anchor. Head up and tend right until you hit a ledge. Belay from there. Follow the crack system back left toward the "crux" traverse under a small roof for pitch four. My partner followed the thin crack up the right side of the crux roof instead of going out the arete which wasn't bad. Look for the Cam #2 and .75 anchor placement just before you hit the little ledge. The ledge doesn't offer much.

Pitch 5: Crux for us was getting to that bolt. You only have to make a move or two of thin climbing before clipping the bolt. Great Cam #2 placement on the left crack just as you enter chockstone.

I would recommend belaying from on top of the chockstone. There is a fixed nut here which can be backed up by good cams.

Pitch 5: To avoid the rope drag issues described in the comment above, make sure to place your cam at the end of the roof and sling the thing!!! Don't be zippering the entire crack up to the roof. Don't be afraid to sling your gear. Slings alleviate rope drag and save your cams from getting pushed deep into cracks.

Face climbing on the left side is suprisingly thin. Just take it slow. A nut can be thrown in the mix here but the protection is poor overall. It gets better as you go.

Have fun!

By Patrick Mulligan
Dec 15, 2011

I did this climb back in June and the bolt protecting the 5.8 section before the cracks below the chockstone was hanging about 1/3 of an inch out of the rock. The hanger spun freely.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 15, 2011

someone must have tightened it since then- i did it this fall and it was fine.

By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

A fun romp up Whiskey Peak. I wouldn't say this is a good route for a beginner leader at the 5.8 level. It is heady and the gear takes skill to get. Route finding is somewhat difficult as well with many traverses. That being said if you are a confident 5.8 leader give it a shot! I brought a .3, .4 and .5-3 of c4 Camalots, and a rack of nuts. I felt like this was ample gear and I was linking pitches with a 70 meter. We ended up doing the entire climb in 4 pitches with about 5 ft of simulclimbing on the last pitch. The descent wasn't actually as bad as I expected but bring real shoes and a headlamp if it takes you a while. All anchors are trad with 4 bolts on the entire route. There are good stances for anchors so don't worry about hanging belays.

By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

This is a fun, moderate route with a relaxed feel because of the great belay ledges and good rests between the harder moves. On the first 5.8 pitch (p.4), after protecting below the roof, we stepped way down (at least 15 feet) before traversing over to the arete, which was very easy (5.6) and avoided any sketchy smearing. This still leaves you with one .8 move on the arete, which can be protected (sling it long to minimize drag). A few feet above that, be sure to place a piece on the right wall above the roof to keep the rope from jamming in the apex. The second 5.8 pitch (the chockstone pitch) felt very easy for the grade: up to the bolt (with a good cam just below it), then, with the bolt just below your feet, make easy moves directly left into the obvious crack (straight up above the bolt is harder and less secure). If you don't belay just above the chockstone, watch out for the possibility of getting your rope badly pinched both as it runs past the chockstone and in the notch of the next bulge/roof ten feet up and right of it. Smart gear placements can avoid this. The final pitch up the face right of the big corner is trival (.4) and protects just fine.

By Angie C
From: Sacramento, Ca
Sep 17, 2012

Did this route on Sept 16, and there wasn't any other parties on the route. An all around fantastic climb. I found that compared to Lake Tahoe and Yosemite climbing, the grade was a little soft for a 5.8, but there were a couple teeny moves, where I thought to my self... "yeah, that feels 5.8"

The roof traverse on the 4th pitch following by the moves right afterwards would qualify as true 5.8. There were less than a handful of other places where I'd say it was 5.8.

Nevertheless, such a cool route. Enjoyed the squeeze through the chockstone. I wore a camelback backpack and it was totally fine for the squeeze. I think a regular sized pack would have been a bit tighter/possibly too tight.

The 4th pitch is basically a traverse pitch, with some upward movement at times. Make sure you protect your follower properly so they do not have to deal with the potential for a super pendulum.

Descent: I expected the walk off to be somewhat treacherous, after having the experience of an unnamed topo guide book from Yosemite tell me some things were simple 3rd class, but in reality were X rated 3rd class (e.g. although it's easy, if you fall you die). Instead, the walk off was decent, as long as you follow the cairns.

Approach: supertopo says the approach is just 30 minutes. Give yourself at least 45.

By Jared R
Sep 23, 2012

Just did this route on Friday, Sept 21, 2012 and it was fun. There was a loose block about 2 moves after the roof traverse on pitch 4 that looks like a great hold, but would come down with little effort.

The best pitch was the 5th/chockstone pitch because there were a lot of different types of climbing, thin crimps on the slab, chimneying, jamming and slab climbing after the chockstone. The rest of the climb was ok but the 5th pitch made it worth it.

With a 60M rope we climbed the 5th pitch up to the big ledge about 70 ft below the summit, however, there weren't too many placement options for the anchor there. I think that after traversing right, out of the chockstone chimney, there is a better place to belay from than the large ledge from which I belayed. The rope drag was getting pretty bad by the time that I reached the large ledge.

By Dan Brockway
From: Boulder
Nov 11, 2012

Just did this route and had a great time. The loose block is still about 10 feet after the roof. It does have a chalk X on it but it is big enoug to really be dangerous. (By the way if you put a #1 Black Diamond just above the roof you can keep your rope from jamming in the crack in the roof)

By Canon
Dec 8, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Had the climb to ourselves on Friday morning; arrived at the TH at 0600. Nobody else came up behind us, and only had the sounds of the climbers on Epi and the braying of the burros to serenade us.

A truly stellar climb. P1 was great, P2's crack was a nice surprise, and only had one fixed cam, a .75 BD Camalot in it. The traverse on P4 had a fixed Metolius master cam with about the rattiest sling I've ever seen. You can back it up. The traverse was a heck of a reach, had no rope jamming problems after, watch out for the loose blocks on the left 20' above the traverse and 10' short of the belay(it is not marked).

Epic views of all the parties on Epinephrine. The walk off is straightforward and no more treacherous than everything else in RR, but bring your shoes if you can.

By Cochran949
Mar 27, 2013

Ended up stuck behind three extremely slow parties of two and a not so slow party of three on Sunday. Not unexpected we went with the flow, grumbled to ourselves, but were courteous and helpful along the way. Even stopping to redirect and point the way down the gully to the party of three about 1/3 of the way down.
Anyway, we topped out at/around when the moon was illuminating the top pitch. A bit hurried to get down and back I'm fairly certain my partner left behind a #8 curved nut and sling near the chock stone. Up for grabs.

By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Singles? I ignored all that and took doubles to 3, with a 3rd #2, and was very glad I did. It's gear anchors, yo. And very true in the description that there is some spice at the crux pitches. Great climb!

By I am Sam
Aug 18, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Rope-solo on Frogland yesterday and didn't see another soul all day after leaving the black top! Brought a total of 13 cams (Black/Blue Alien through #3 Camalot), 6 nuts, 9 alpine draws (should've brought 2-3 more) and 2 Prussiks. You may want more gear if trying to link pitches or if Layton Kor isn't one of your heroes.

Found some loose blocks on P2 in the wideness and on P4 after the roof. None of them were super sketch and they're easy to avoid if you are half-way conscious of what's going on up there.

Spookiest part for me was the move to clip the bolt on P5 where the only thing between me and a 45'-50' factor 2 onto the anchor was a piece of sh1t chicken head. You can eliminate or reduce this threat by linking 4 & 5, protecting the anchor on P5 by slamming in a piece or two before the crack pinches shut, or do what most people do and just don't fall.

P.S. The double figure 8 is a sexy knot that allows you to leave the cordalettes at home!

Light & Tight on top of the Chockstone
Light & Tight on top of the Chockstone

By Jeff Chrisler
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 16, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

September seems to be the month to do this route. After a late night in Vegas, we arrived at the parking lot to see two other cars. One seemed to be a bunch of mountain bikers and the other was likely a party on this route. They were two pitches up and well ahead of us such that we did not catch up. The weather was perfect and we weren't in the sun at all. This was a great route in comfortable conditions! The walkoff adds to the ease and enjoyment of this route. Be sure that if you get a late start to take your time going down as it would be easy to catch a rock or two and take a tumble.

By Jared Wicks
From: Las Vegas
Oct 4, 2013

This was a stellar route. Climbed this on Tuesday, Oct 2nd, 2013. There were two other parties on the route but things went really smooth. All of the hangers are still missing from the bolts so plan to build a trad anchor at each belay.

  • **WARNING***
The chimney section on Pitch 3 (if you take the highly recommended variation to the right) has a very large block that is loose/not attached. We marked it as best as we could... It is about halfway up the chimney so beware.

The cairns on the decent are in good order and very straight forward to follow. Highly recommend this route.

By Jared Wicks
From: Las Vegas
Oct 4, 2013

Reference JMo's comment above, we took doubles to #3 as well and I'm glad we did. Even with running it out a bit you'll still appreciate the options while still having gear for the anchors.

By Chris D
From: the couch
Oct 16, 2013

Couple of thoughts on this route, which was great fun!

1. On P4, there is a way to get around all obstacles at no more than 5.6 or easy 7. From the belay you go up a knobby ramp to an obvious horizontal crack/ledge that you traverse on above the roof by the belay. Tons of chalk on the face below the roof from people who either didn't figure this out or were looking for the hard way up. Last weekend, there was an old fixed cam with some tatty nylon at the start of the roof further up (the one on the skyline in the main beta photo, before you head out on the arete). Clip this, then go low, and again, follow an obvious horizontal crack, this time with your hands in the crack and your feet smearing below. Easy. Moving from under the roof onto the arete was a fantastic and fun balancy move that I thought was one of the most memorable parts of the climb.

2. P5. I don't know what the heck people are talking about all the difficulty of getting to/past the bolt from the start of this pitch. The slabby section is not only easy, but there are ample holds and nubbins for you to grab for balance. Stemming the chimney above the slab was much harder, IMO. If you have any experience on actual friction slab, the "crux slab" will feel like Sierra 4th class to you. Do not make the same stupid mistake I did. If you are wearing a medium-sized or larger pack, take it off before you go under the chockstone! Ha! Trust me, you might wedge yourself in, but upward progress is tough when you're corked in like that!

Enjoy!

By Mr. Hummus
From: SLC, Utah
Nov 28, 2013

Climbed frogland yesterday and it was great. Generally I like to link pitches, but it doesn't work too well on this route. Even with lots of slings there was tons of rope drag linking 3 and 4, making the delicate moves under the overhang pretty heady. Also the decent gully branches into two gullies. The left most gully requires raps and drops you way further down than you want. Pretty much below black velvet wall requiring a hike back up the hill to your packs at the base of the route. We lost the cairns as it got dark which made the extra long decent less fun. So if you haven't seen cairns in a while it is probably worth your while to backtrack and make sure you're still on the right decent route.

By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Nov 29, 2013

If you ended up at the Black Velvet Wall, then you went the wrong way. At the top of the formation, you need to go east instead of west. There are no raps on the standard decent.

By Action in Solitude
Dec 2, 2013

Video of rescue on Frogland.


By Mr. Hummus
From: SLC, Utah
Dec 3, 2013

Thanks sqwirll. That would have been nice to know. We were descending with another group, who also had unclear beta on the descent. Mtn project just says to follow the cairns, and our guidebooks differed on descent beta. Upon topping out on frogland there was an obvious cairn ten feet to my left. So I started following the cairns and they led us into the gully that drops down right (which would be west) towards black velvet wall. There were lots of cairns most the way down a loose but well traveled trail. Eventually the cairns disappeared and we soon had to rap. So why the hell are there all those cairns if it's not the proper descent route??

By Gentrye
From: Redstone, CO
May 7, 2014

all female ascent!

By Likeasummerthursday
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Aug 10, 2014

Great route! Single rack with doubles of .75, 1 and 2 was plenty. Single wires and offset wires in the medium to large sizes. Tricams were great on this route, too, .25-2 all got used. Could protect the 4th pitch in huecos on the face below the roof.

For those who want, here is my take on primary placements for the gear for belays. All straightforward:

P1: Big tree on big ledge.
P2: Nuts and a medium cam
P3: a #2, .75 and big nuts
P4: any gear you've got split between a horizontal and vertical crack
P5: a 1 in the roof on the right past the chock stone with a double-length sling and a small cam on the right face over the roof as a directional lets you belay on the huge ledge twenty feet above and over the chock stone with manageable rope drag. This makes the belay for the last, easy pitch really good. Straight up and entirely visible. Manage the rope drag over and around the chock stone with slings and you really don't have to belay on the chock stone. There was a double-basketball size loose block on the face up and right of the chock stone that I could have pulled off. Careful!

Not sure why the first pitch is bolted, but there is enough fixed gear on the route, about 10 pieces that some of the harder moves felt bolted.

The only truly exposed move felt like the 10 feet on P5 to the bolt overhead. Easy friction climbing, just stay cool to the first bolt. Put in any piece before leaving the belay.