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Donner Pass

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Aspen Boulder, The 
Baboon Crag 
Babylon Crag, The 
Black Wall 
Donner Memorial State Park 
Freeway Slab 
Gemstone Wall 
Goldilocks Wall 
Green Phantom Rock 
Grouse Slab 
North Stars Wall 
P.C.T. Cliff 
Peanut Gallery, The 
Road Cut, The 
School Rock 
Snowshed Wall 
Space Wall 
Split Boulder. 
Star Wall 
Stealth Wall 
White Lines Boulder 

Donner Pass 


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Location: 39.3184, -120.314 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 322,086
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Oct 7, 2002
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Mark Hudon climbing at Donner, 1979.
Photo by Blit...

Description 

Donner Pass is located just south of 80 east of Truckee. The climbing is on granite rocks ranging from small to hundreds of feet. Both cracks and sport climbs co-exist here, and there are some kick-ass climbs of both sorts.Camping near the climbing is illegal, but doesn't seem to be too severely enforced. If that troubles you, there's camping on the opposite side of Donner Lake, or plenty of hotel-type accomadations in nearby Truckee, which also is an ample source of food and entertainment.The Donner Pass climbing season is from ~mid-April until whenever snow closes the road in November or December. Donner's 7000' elevation means that even during beautiful summer days a surprise storm is possible, so be prepared.


Getting There 

From the Bay Area, take 80 East, through Sacramento. Continue uphill until the Soda Springs exit. Follow Donner Pass Road through Soda Springs and past the ski area exits until you find yourself travelling down a steep and windy road with large rocks on both sides. The first rock you'll come across is Baboon Crag then School Rock, both on your left. Total drive time is highly dependent on traffic and your willingness to speed, but it can be done in just over two hours if you're foot is heavy...


226 Total Routes


['4 Stars',31],['3 Stars',94],['2 Stars',72],['1 Star',20],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',14],['5.7',4],['5.8',18],['5.9',27],['5.10',77],['5.11',48],['5.12',18],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',6],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',3],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Donner Pass:
Insidious Crack   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   Grouse Slab
Composure   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   Snowshed Wall
Rated X   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Black Wall
Jellyroll Arch   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Grouse Slab
One Hand Clapping   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Black Wall
Nova Express   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad   Snowshed Wall
Black September   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Black Wall
Bottomless Topless   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Snowshed Wall
Touch A Cannibal   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Black Wall
Firecracker   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Black Wall
Farewell to Arms   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad   Snowshed Wall
Peter Principle   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Snowshed Wall
Aerial   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Snowshed Wall
Karl's Overhang   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   School Rock
Made in Japan   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Space Wall
Disciples Of the New Wave   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Snowshed Wall
Monkey Paws   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, TR, 70'   Snowshed Wall
Cookie Mix   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 80'   Star Wall
Panic in Detroit   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Trad, TR, 65'   Snowshed Wall
Cannibals   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Snowshed Wall
Browse More Classics in Donner Pass

Featured Route For Donner Pass
Melissa coming up Bourbon Street's crux pitch - awesome climb!

Bourbon Street 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Black Wall
Pitch 1 and 2: Climb the chimney like feature and cracks to left of the Rat's Tooth. I believe the first pitch was 5.6 or 5.7 and the second pitch had some 5.8 like moves ending on a nice ledge on the left side of the large gulley. In an older guidebook they called these two pitches "Inner Recess" (I actually prefer to climb the 5.10 pitch of Rat's tooth, and the beginning of the 2nd pitch of Touch and go to get to the anchor)Pitch 3 (The Money Pitch): From the ledge climb straight up the ch...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Donner Pass
Photos of Donner Pass Slideshow Add Photo
Unknown problem (V4?) on an unknown boulder at Donner Pass.  On the way to the Grouse Slabs.  Thanks to Ben and Mason for showing me this great problem.
Unknown problem (V4?) on an unknown boulder at Don...
View from high above Donner Lake
View from high above Donner Lake
This picture isn't washed out... I just glow that much.
This picture isn't washed out... I just glow that ...
Comments on Donner Pass Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 20, 2012
By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
May 11, 2004

More about camping: the Donner Lake camping area doesn't open up until Memorial Day, but Granite Flats campground opens earlier. It is located a few miles south of Truckee on highway 89. It costs $15/night/site and an extra $5/night for each extra vehicle. Its not the most remote campsite as it is directly adjacent to 89, but has decent toilets and well water.

By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 16, 2004

Sometimes $20 a night.

By Blitzo
Sep 25, 2006

Donner has some great climbing!

By Nikolai Daiss-Fechner
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 11, 2008

If climbing near the top of Donner (Goldilocks, Schoolhouse, Hiking PCT etc), please do not park in the paved part of the Sugar Bowl Academy lot (formerly ASI). There is a service road that runs out the back of the lot. Parking on any of the dirt in this area is permitted. Just stay off the pavement.
Bathrooms are rather scarce on Donner, and burying it is tough since most of the ground is solid rock. There is an outhouse at Snowshed wall (can't miss it), as well as bathrooms at the Cafe in Norden (West towards where you get onto 80). Donner Ski Ranch is also sometimes an option. SBA (right on the pass) CANNOT allow general public to use their restrooms legally. Also, down on 40 along Donner lake there are a few small cafes and stores that may or may not have bathrooms. There is a beach on Donner lake at the west end that has restrooms, but there is an access fee depending on the time of year.
The easily accessible docks on Donner Lake are for public use, on a kind of first come first serve basis. Look down at the shore as you drive along the lake to find them. Excellent place to have an evening beer after climbing or spend a rest day lounging and swimming. (On a side note, do not fish here without a license because Rangers DO come by to check). The swimming is first class...water temps are chilly but very nice as far as snow runoff fed lakes go.
I would be more than happy to provide any additional info. Feel Free to contact me. I however, have a terrible memory and rout beta is not my strong point. I did live here (at SBA) for 2 years though and know the area itself very well

By ----
May 3, 2009

couple of questions about Donners Pass:

Is all the snow melted by the end of May? Is everything climbable at this time?

Are crowds ever a problem here? Is it very often that you have to wait in line for a popular climb? Would memorial day weekend be a bad time to go?

Thanks for any info you have.

By Rick D
From: Reno, NV
May 4, 2009

Response to Slab Guy:

The snow will still be around but you can get to all the walls as of right now. Snowshed is still pretty wet though. Snowshed is usually packed on the weekends, Truckee will be a zoo on memorial, everyone from the bay comes up.

By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Nov 2, 2009

Could anyone tell me if there is any good place to camp this time of year around Donner? Most campgrounds are open May through October. Forest Land is ok to "dispense" camp but where/how does one find a good area that's not private and that is accessible. You do need a fire permit (free) from the park service/visitor center if you plan to cook or have a fire. Thanks!

By Arin
From: North Las Vegas, NV
Oct 21, 2011

Does anyone know what camp site is closest and if there are any camp sites paid or BLM with trails leading to the climbing areas? I'm fine with long trails, even up to 10-12 miles.

By Rams
Jul 10, 2012

Can anyone recommend a guidebook for Donner and/or all of North Tahoe? I searched online and all I could find was the Falcon guide from 1999 and a Maximus Press book for Big Chief.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jul 11, 2012

Rams,

See the link pasted below (it has a list of all of the books that are available):

www.mountainproject.com/v/norcal-guidebook/107657908#a_10765>>>

By John Jackson
Jul 13, 2012

Rams;

If you want the comprehensive guidebook for the North Tahoe region:

The new LOCALS GUIDE to North Tahoe has all 1,300 of the known routes in the North Tahoe-Donner-Reno region with full color overlays of almost every route. Included are seven hundred routes not documented in the other guidebooks listed, as well as a detailed history of climbing in the region.

More info here: camp4press.com

By slk
From: Reno, NV
Aug 5, 2012

^^^^^^

This guide is awesome for the area. For a .7-.8 climber it's helped to point me to some fun stuff. Going to go hit some .6 and .7 up above snowshed today and help clean it out!!!!

Thanks J. Jackson, see you at happy hour.

By Alex Haeger
From: Denver, CO
Oct 20, 2012

For anyone interested, the state park campground on Donner Lake is closed for the season as of 10/19/12. I got here late on 10/19/12 and was unable to find safe looking national forest land, although according to maps of the area national forest land surrounds the donner pass area. Does anyone have better info on camping in the NF land?