Donnelly Canyon Rock Climbing
cold morning. not one person in the canyon...time ...
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
As you stand in the major parking area wondering if you'll be able to find a warm-up with no parties camped on it at the Super Crack, Donnelly, Battle of the Bulge cluster, look northwest. You can't miss seeing the well-traveled splitter Generic Crack. This is the most prominent feature on the Donnelly Canyon wall. Donnelly Canyon is home to several moderate climbs and consequently, hordes of gumbies. However, this is Indian Creek and there are several good lines on this wall.
Another lesser know attraction of Donnelly Canyon is its acoustics. After a day of posing at either Super Crack Buttress or DC, you may find yourself enjoying a beer in the parking lot while you spray. When you shut-up long enough to belch, be sure to aim in the direction of Generic Crack. If you have any talent at all, then your mating call will be well amplified as it echoes and resonates out of the canyon. To witness this awe-inspiring feat alone is worth the drive to the Creek.
Look for the major parking lot on the right about 4 miles or so past Newspaper Rock. The wall for Donnelly is the one on the west that is more or less perpendicular to the road.
Weather station 13.3 miles from here
28 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Donnelly Canyon
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Donnelly Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Donnelly Canyon:
The Thing 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Owl Crack 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Mr. Peanut 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Ocean Negro 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Featured Route For Donnelly Canyon
Fuel Injected Hardbody 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
: Moab Area
: ... : Donnelly Canyon
This high quality stemming and liebacking problem is located in an attractive, varnished left-facing corner just left of the much more popular Generic Crack. Stem the first 20 feet on tiny gear (00 TCU size) to a welcome 0.75 Camalot placement. Above this is a bolt which protects ten feet of crux climbing up to some solid fingers liebacking. Save a rattley fingers piece for the run to the anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Another fine day at Donnelly Canyon offering a ton...
By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Feb 6, 2012
Can anyone provide information about the good-looking tight-hands (?) crack that is a bit left of Binou's Crack? It's in the back of a tight flare and ends under a roof. Maybe 80', with a modern-looking chain anchor?
EDIT: thanks for the info Devin. Maybe I'll get a chance to do this one soon; I'll post it up here if I do.
Apr 2, 2012
yeah, i seem to remember thinking 10c or so.
By Alex Haeger
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 3, 2015
I was in the creek for the first time last weekend and was unsure about where the Donnelly Canyon cliffs start based on descriptions here and in the guidebook. After running into a second group in the same predicament, I figured it would be good to post here some more info. The Donnelly Canyon cliff line can be seen from the parking lot it shares with supercrack. From the parking lot, take the trail on the left, opposite of the toilets, and work your way to the cliffs that start right away on the left. Generic Crack is the first giant semi-worn splitter you see. Don't hike way back into the canyon unless you're looking for some obscure lines!