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Donnelly Canyon

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 Corner T 
Ansaid Tower T 
Binou's Crack T 
Chocolate Corner T 
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 
Dos Hermanos T 
Drainpipe T 
Elephant Man T 
Fuel Injected Hardbody T 
Generic Crack T 
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark T 
Let 'er Buck S 
Mr. Peanut T 
Naked and Dead, The T 
Naked and the Dead Variation T 
Ocean Negro T 
Owl Crack T 
Rainbow Sign T 
Sister Skywalker T 
Sleeve of Wizard T 
Thing, The T 
Twitterpated T 
Unknown T 
Unknown 5.10+ T 
Unknown AKA Reclamation T 
Unknown Pod Climb. T 

Donnelly Canyon  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.0398, -109.5436 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 190,891
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben F on May 12, 2002
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cold morning. not one person in the canyon...time ...


As you stand in the major parking area wondering if you'll be able to find a warm-up with no parties camped on it at the Super Crack, Donnelly, Battle of the Bulge cluster, look northwest. You can't miss seeing the well-traveled splitter Generic Crack. This is the most prominent feature on the Donnelly Canyon wall. Donnelly Canyon is home to several moderate climbs and consequently, hordes of gumbies. However, this is Indian Creek and there are several good lines on this wall.

Another lesser know attraction of Donnelly Canyon is its acoustics. After a day of posing at either Super Crack Buttress or DC, you may find yourself enjoying a beer in the parking lot while you spray. When you shut-up long enough to belch, be sure to aim in the direction of Generic Crack. If you have any talent at all, then your mating call will be well amplified as it echoes and resonates out of the canyon. To witness this awe-inspiring feat alone is worth the drive to the Creek.

Getting There 

Look for the major parking lot on the right about 4 miles or so past Newspaper Rock. The wall for Donnelly is the one on the west that is more or less perpendicular to the road.

Climbing Season

Weather station 13.3 miles from here

27 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Donnelly Canyon:
Binou's Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Generic Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   
Chocolate Corner   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Elephant Man   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Thing   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
5.10 Corner   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   
Owl Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Drainpipe   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   
The Naked and Dead   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad   
The Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   
Mr. Peanut   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Unknown Pod Climb.   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Unknown 5.10+   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Naked and the Dead Variation   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 40'   
Twitterpated   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 70'   
Fuel Injected Hardbody   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Dos Hermanos   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad   
Let 'er Buck   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 100'   
Ocean Negro   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Trad, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Donnelly Canyon

Featured Route For Donnelly Canyon
Onsight flight through sweet finger corner.

Twitterpated 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  UT : Moab Area : ... : Donnelly Canyon
A couple off-finger moves and face climbing lead past some softer rock to a shelf, pull past a bulging slot with fists to hands and into the sweet varnished left-facing dihedral above, stem, layback, and fingerlock up this sustained corner with mostly great fingers to a couple tipsy moves and a flared handjam at the anchor. A fine route for the grade, with great stone save for the one soft section at the start; with a bit of traffic this should become a popular line....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Donnelly Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Another fine day at Donnelly Canyon offering a ton...
Another fine day at Donnelly Canyon offering a ton...

Comments on Donnelly Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Feb 6, 2012
Can anyone provide information about the good-looking tight-hands (?) crack that is a bit left of Binou's Crack? It's in the back of a tight flare and ends under a roof. Maybe 80', with a modern-looking chain anchor?

EDIT: thanks for the info Devin. Maybe I'll get a chance to do this one soon; I'll post it up here if I do.
By slim
Apr 2, 2012
yeah, i seem to remember thinking 10c or so.
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