Central Coast

Tidal Pool-Central Coast. Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Sandwiched between major urban centers Los Angeles to the south and the San Francisco Bay to the north, the quaint Central Coast of California spans roughly from Ventura to Monterey. While known primarily for surfing, celebrities, wine-tasting, and exorbitant real estate, there is actually surprisingly good climbing to be found. The majority of rock around Santa Barbara, Ventura, and Ojai is medium-grade sandstone (i.e., a little friable), but there's also blue schist (Green Dome), andesite (SLO), and conglomerate (Silly Rock, Wheeler Gorge) out there. The climbing is by no means world class, but what it lacks in quality it makes up for in aesthetics. As a friend of mine would say, "maybe not 4-star climbing, but makes for a 4-star day!"

Areas like the Sespe Gorge had established routes as early as the late 50s and 60s. Over the years, many well-known climbers have graced these small cliffsides, including the likes of Yvon Chouinard (Yosemite legend and founder/owner of Patagonia), Reese Martin, brothers Tim and Tobin Sorenson, Jonny Woodward (Black Diamond), Jim Donini and even Henry Barber!

Sadly, Reese was killed in a paragliding accident in July 2004. Here is a link to some of his favorites in the area.

Getting There 

Hwy 101 connects Ventura to San Luis Obispo. 99% of the routes described here lie either off the 101, 154 (San Marcos Pass), 33 (Ojai), or 166 (east of Santa Maria). Refer to specific area for details and directions.

Featured Route For Central Coast

The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly 5.9  CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara

This route takes the tallest (and highest quality) line at the crag. The crux is pulling over a small roof with a bolt overhead.Five bolts of sustained, delicate slab climbing (stay low on the slab and out of the gully for full value) give way to an awkward clip, followed by an awkward move, a truly difficult clip and then the steep crux. One more bolt leads to the anchors.If you manage to clip the seventh bolt, the crux is extremely well prote...[more]

Add Photo Photos of Central Coast

Young Elephant Seal. Photo by Blitzo.	Montana de Oro Beach, near Morro Bay. Photo by Bli...	California Central Coast. Photo by Blitzo.
Starfish. Photo by Blitzo.	California Central Coast. Photo by Blitzo.	California gulls-the State Bird of Utah. Photo by ...