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Alan Doak

boulder, co
50 years old · Male
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More About Alan Drop down
Member Since
Oct 1, 2007
Last Visit: Feb 22, 2026
120 Points
Point Rank: #9,458 DetailsDrop down
Alan is in the Partner Finder
Best Times to Meet:
Likes Trad, Sport, Gym
Leads Follows
Trad 5.12c 5.12c
Sport 5.13a 5.13a
Aid C4 C4
Boulders V1
Member of
More Info

I'm a 5.11 climber hailing from Boulder. While at grad school, I spent a lot of weekends in Josh.

Comments View All 28

May 29, 2022
Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley S Side > I. Glacier Poin… > 4. Goodrich Pinnacle…
Hall of Mirrors 5.12c R
● Finally getting around to posting this... The last time I was on this route in 2018 (solo-toproping from th… View Comment
Oct 10, 2018
Yosemite NP > … > Valley S Side > I. Glacier Poin… > 4. Goodrich Pin… > Hall of Mirrors (5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R)
View of the Hang bivy on the FA of the Hall of Mirrors in 1978.
● Great historical shot! FYI, the Hang isn't a great bivy. View Comment
May 21, 2018
Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley S Side > P. Cathedral Area > 6. Middle Cathedral Rock
Spank Your Monkey 5.10b PG13
● From this toprope, there are many hard elimination slab lines to hone your skills on. View Comment
Aug 3, 2015
Laramie Area > Vedauwoo > Coke Bottle
Space Oddity (a.k.a. Significant Local) 5.12a
● I'm certain that 60m would get you down from the welded shuts at the top of the route. The middle mark of m… View Comment
Jun 15, 2015
S Platte > Wigwam Creek/Lo… > Wigwam Dome
El Supremo 5.11b R
● For the crux 4th pitch, I used a #0.5 Camalot for the opening move, a #0.4 Camalot in a horizontal halfway… View Comment
Jun 15, 2015
S Platte > Wigwam Creek/Lo… > Wigwam Dome
Violent Energy 5.12a/b
● While the bolts could definitely be updated, the crux move is protected with an old, rusty 3/8" bolt (as op… View Comment

Forum Messages View All 169

Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Knots in Nylon Sling to Protect Marginal Placements
Dec 6, 2017 Regarding that paper, and associated graph, near the start of the thread.... The test was run with a 15cm drop. Six inches! Extrapolating that data to a lead fall scenario is..… View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: How does weight affect friction
Jul 18, 2017 The classical model of 2 sliding bodies overlooks a whole bunch of really important effects.Pure friction slab is really rare, typically there's some feature that's bearing mor… View Message
General > Big Wall and Aid Climbing
Reply: Petzl Evolve Adjust & Aid Climbing...Anyone Try it?
Feb 23, 2017 Sorry to hijack, but has anyone tried the Kong Slyde as an adjustable daisy for aid climbing? Thoughts? How does it compare to the Evolve? Does it extend smoothly, or is it fid… View Message
General > Big Wall and Aid Climbing
Kong Slyde as adjustable daisy?
Feb 22, 2017 Has anyone here used a Kong Slyde as an adjustable daisy for aid climbing? Thoughts? Does it extend smoothly, or is it fiddly to reset the length? View Message
General > Big Wall and Aid Climbing
Reply: Aid Climbing Sequence Question
Nov 15, 2016 That's a cool pic of the hook! It's a reminder that eye protection is a good idea while aid climbing. View Message
General > Big Wall and Aid Climbing
Reply: Aid Climbing Sequence Question
Nov 14, 2016 fwiw, I've taken a high factor fall onto a dyneema daisy without injury, though I'm sure it's possible to mess yourself up (spine compression comes to mind). They make dais… View Message

Route Scores View All 82

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0
 1,648
● Stolen Chimney
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
Southeast Utah > Fisher Towers > Ancient Art
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 497
● Northeast Face
Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
Wind River Range > Cirque of the T… > Pingora
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 800
● South Face
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Petit Grepon
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 401
● West Ridge
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Yosemite NP > … > Glen Aulin Area > Mt Conness
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 437
● Way Rambo
Trad
Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Way Rambo
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C0
 206
● Primrose Dihedrals
Trad, Aid 7 pitches
Southeast Utah > … > Taylor Canyon > Moses
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Stolen Chimney Southeast Utah > Fisher Towers > Ancient Art
Avg:  1,648
Alan:
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 Trad, Aid 4 pitches
● Northeast Face Wind River Range > Cirque of the T… > Pingora
Avg:  497
Alan:
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
● South Face Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Petit Grepon
Avg:  800
Alan:
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
● West Ridge Yosemite NP > … > Glen Aulin Area > Mt Conness
Avg:  401
Alan:
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
● Way Rambo Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Way Rambo
Avg:  437
Alan:
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
● Primrose Dihedrals Southeast Utah > … > Taylor Canyon > Moses
Avg:  206
Alan:
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C0 Trad, Aid 7 pitches
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