Avg: 4 from 16 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||Ken Trout, Kirk Miller, and Rob Baker (4th pitch variation Rob Baker and Peter Prandoni)1985|
|Page Views:||4,349 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||Ron Olsen on Jun 13, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Pitch one. Climb up over a small overhang passing two old bolts. Continue up following the sometime flaring crack to it's end. Make a long traverse left to a two-bolt belay. Option: after 30 feet of climbing look for a bolt on the left leading into a obvious water streak. This is Violent Energy a 12b start to the route. Hand rail past the third bolt to reach the water groove. Make a series of hard moves on small edges and nubbins and difficult clips up the groove. Follow the groove up to the belay.
Pitch two: Move left and up from the belay. Traverse right passing two bolts. Fire up the beautiful slab on wonderful edges, nubbins and smears, tending right to the belay.
Pitch three: go right from the belay and clip the first bolt, fire up to the second bolt (a little run-out) and climb the beautiful steep slab past several bolts (9) to an old 1/4 inch bolt. Get ready for a long runout to the anchor.
Pitch four. Climb almost straight up from the belay over a small overhand and past two old bolts (crux). Veer a little left and run it out to the third bolt. Go right (yellow alien) and run it out to the fourth bolt. Glide up to the belay. Follow the crack (5.9) to the top. Walk off to the right and down to the base.