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Routes in Wigwam Dome

El Supremo T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hill's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lady Slipper T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Little Bo Peep Diploma T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
On the Edge T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pow Wow Canal T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Ramblin' Rose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teepee Tower Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trail of Tears T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trout-Baker Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Violent Energy T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Warpath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wunsch's Simulator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 550 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Ken Trout, Kirk Miller, and Rob Baker (4th pitch variation Rob Baker and Peter Prandoni)1985
Page Views: 2,985 total, 17/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jun 13, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

One of the best slab routes in the "Platte". Wigwam Dome is located in a beautiful valley along Wigwam Creek. A nice and fairly flat two mile hike will get you to the base of the climb. The climb starts on the left side of the dome below obvious water streaks.

Pitch one. Climb up over a small overhang passing two old bolts. Continue up following the sometime flaring crack to it's end. Make a long traverse left to a two-bolt belay. Option: after 30 feet of climbing look for a bolt on the left leading into a obvious water streak. This is Violent Energy a 12b start to the route. Hand rail past the third bolt to reach the water groove. Make a series of hard moves on small edges and nubbins and difficult clips up the groove. Follow the groove up to the belay.

Pitch two: Move left and up from the belay. Traverse right passing two bolts. Fire up the beautiful slab on wonderful edges, nubbins and smears, tending right to the belay.

Pitch three: go right from the belay and clip the first bolt, fire up to the second bolt (a little run-out) and climb the beautiful steep slab past several bolts (9) to an old 1/4 inch bolt. Get ready for a long runout to the anchor.

Pitch four. Climb almost straight up from the belay over a small overhand and past two old bolts (crux). Veer a little left and run it out to the third bolt. Go right (yellow alien) and run it out to the fourth bolt. Glide up to the belay. Follow the crack (5.9) to the top. Walk off to the right and down to the base.

Protection

Take 15 quickdraws and gear up to a 3 friend if you do the standard first pitch.
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
Some of these pitch descriptions are missing information. Here is some more detail after having climbed this on 6/18/17.

Pitch 1: two bolts off the deck - 1/4" but solid. Move into the right-arching crack, and traverse it to the right until a break that allows you to move back left. A #3 fits in the break at the bottom and a 0.4 or 0.5 fits in the flake that moves you back left. Long run out to the anchors. 5.8 R runout section.

Pitch 2: beautiful face climbing, well-protected.

Pitch 3: Beautiful face climbing to the top of the wall, then when it pitches back, expect long run-out on 5.10 face climbing for about 60 feet. This section could be X or R depending on how you want to call it. There are two sets of bad anchors at the top. We moved to the large horizontal break and belayed from chockstones in the break.

Pitch 4: there are 5 bolts (not 2). 2 right away and then two more that veer you left. The crux is between bolts 2 and 3 and 4. Then about 20 feet to bolt 5 and then another long run out 60 feet to a bomber anchor with rap bolts.

Pitch 5: we just broke left along a horizontal crack to get off as the hard climbing was done.

There are significant run-outs on this climb both of the 3rd pitch and 4th pitch (60 feet +) that if you fell on these section (5.10 face climbing?) you would get seriously hurt. Jun 19, 2017
Alan Doak
boulder, co
 
Alan Doak   boulder, co
 
For the crux 4th pitch, I used a #0.5 Camalot for the opening move, a #0.4 Camalot in a horizontal halfway up the pitch, and a #0.75 at the top. I used the same gear (plus a #0.3) for the Violent Energy direct start. Jun 15, 2015
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Hands down the best face pitches I've climbed in The Platte, and we didn't even get to do the crux last pitch. The 2nd and 3rd pitch bolts have all been replaced except for a buttonhead on the 3rd pitch that protects the final runout to the anchors, which are also old :(. 30 ft to the right is the anchor for on the edge which is in a little bit better shape, but both are in need of being updated. The crux pitch is currently sporting 1/4"ers, hence why we didn't climb it. You can not get down with a 70m, so bring 2 or plan on some shenanigans. Jan 21, 2013
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
If you want to make the raps easier without leaving 'biners, bring a couple of quicklinks to install on the left anchor bolt at the start of the 2nd pitch and another one at the top of the second pitch. Also, bring a runner to leave for the top of the 3rd pitch. I cut off one piece of tat' today and broke another off with my hand. I did the same at the better(?) anchor at the top of On the Edge. BTW, a single 60m rope won't reach down to the anchors at the top of the the 2nd pitch, and I'm doubtful a 70m rope would either. (I left a biner today, if you only bring one rope, which is no big deal. I didn't do the 4th pitch, so I can't comment on whether 2 ropes would be absolutely required.) Sep 11, 2011