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Routes in Wigwam Dome

El Supremo T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hill's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lady Slipper T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Little Bo Peep Diploma T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
On the Edge T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pow Wow Canal T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Ramblin' Rose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teepee Tower Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trail of Tears T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trout-Baker Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Violent Energy T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Warpath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wunsch's Simulator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevation: 9,312 ft
GPS: 39.261, -105.368 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 24,681 total · 129/month
Shared By: Hill on Apr 22, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

Located two miles from the trailhead on the north side of the creek, Wigwam Dome will be the first one you come across as you hike up the trail. With many face and crack routes, some as long as 7 pitches, the Wigwam Dome is good destinaton with a relatively easy approach. It faces south and gets lots of sun. The rock is typical Pike's Peak Granite with lots of big crystals. Some good routes to check out include Warpath, Tee Pee Tower Crack, and of course Hill's Route. Although not all the routes top out, for the ones that do, the easiest descent is a down climb to the south west which leads to a tree with a sling on it for a short rap.

Getting There

From three miles west of Deckers on CO Hwy 126 turn south onto FR 211 and drive up the hill for 1.5 miles and turn right (still FR 211). Continue on 1.1 miles until you reach a Y in the road where you go right onto FR 560. Following signs for Wellington Lake and Wigwam Creek Trailhead, at the next fork stay right again. Still on FR 560, continue 4 more miles to a left hand turn with a sign for Wigwam Creek Trailhead which is FR 545. Go to the end of this road and park for access to Rock Island, Bush League Buttress, Wigwam Dome, Wigwam Tower, and Keystone Buttress.

Addendum from Ivan Rezucha: Hike about 1 mile to the 4th creek crossing which is from south to north on a flattened log that parallels a large tree down across the creek. Continue gently uphill trending away from the creek for about 10 minutes. Immediately after a hairpin turn in the trail look for a subtle ridge or hump on the right running into the open woods. Wigwam is barely visible through the trees. Follow this hump, and shortly you should spot the climbers trail which is marked by sticks on either side and later when it enters the talus and begins climbing by cairns. If you miss this turn, you'll get a better view of Wigwam and the spectacular vertical face of The Sun within a few minutes. Just wander through the open woods towards the right of The Sun aiming for the left side of Wigwam, and you'll pick up the climbers trail.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wigwam Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trail of Tears
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hill's Route
Trad 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Teepee Tower Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wunsch's Simulator
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Lady Slipper
Trad, Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ramblin' Rose
Trad 6 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Warpath
Trad 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Pow Wow Canal
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
On the Edge
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
El Supremo
Trad, Sport 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Trail of Tears 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Hill's Route 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Teepee Tower Crack 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Wunsch's Simulator 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Lady Slipper 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Sport
Ramblin' Rose 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
Warpath 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Pow Wow Canal 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Sport 4 pitches
On the Edge 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
El Supremo 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad, Sport 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Wigwam Dome »

Weather Averages

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Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Jay Eggleston
Denver
Jay Eggleston   Denver
I know there were good places to camp in the past. Mar 10, 2016
What is the car camping situation at the trailhead for this area? Mar 10, 2016
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Ivan's beta for the approach to the formation is spot-on.

Rambling Rose has updated bolts on the route and anchors, with the exception of the anchor atop the long 5.7 dihedral. The rap anchor at the top of Tee Pee Tower crack is updated as well. Sep 2, 2013
That overhanging crack is more like thin hands/hands, and a bit of grainy rock.

There's another great pitch located halfway between Wunsch's Simulator and the Teepee Tower Crack (so just downhill from Wunsch's Simulator). It might be listed as "Turbo Betty" in the old Trout guide, but it's the beautiful finger and hand crack amid some neon lichen, leading to a webbing anchor from a horn and fixed stopper. ~5.10+ Oct 21, 2010
Sergio P
Idaho Springs, CO
Sergio P   Idaho Springs, CO
As AC mentioned about 100' uphill from the start of Wunsch's Simulator is an overhanging finger crack. Does anyone know anything about that route? It looks super hard, maybe 5.12+. This route does have an anchor on top that you can rap off with 2 100' raps. Jul 22, 2008
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
On our first time into Wigwam recently we hiked way too far. We saw the spectacular vertical face of The Sun, but because Hubbel said the approach was two miles, and only 30+ minutes had passed, we said "nice crag" and kept our heads down and kept up our blistering pace. Eventually we passed a crag to dropped right down to the trail and beyond that a broad open area with no rock in sight. We reconsidered, read the Trout guide which said the approach was 1 mile, and turned around, having walked about 40 minutes too far.

So that this doesn't happen to you, here is some more detailed approach info:

Hike about 1 mile to the 4th creek crossing which is from south to north on a flattened log that parallels a large tree down across the creek. Continue gently uphill trending away from the creek for about 10 minutes. Immediately after a hairpin turn in the trail look for a subtle ridge or hump on the right running into the open woods. Wigwam is barely visible through the trees. Follow this hump, and shortly you should spot the climbers trail which is marked by sticks on either side and later when it enters the talus and begins climbing by cairns. If you miss this turn, you'll get a better view of Wigwam and the spectacular vertical face of The Sun within a few minutes. Just wander through the open woods towards the right of The Sun aiming for the left side of Wigwam, and you'll pick up the climbers trail. Nov 1, 2006
Did "Trail of Tears" in October. I am surprised this does not get more press. Great 5 pitch route. Exposure and pro are excellent. Light rack up to a 3 [Camalot]. 1st pitch is recognized by a tear(water) seeping from a dish 10 feet up. The 2nd pitch gains the large dihedral that dominates the right side of Wigwam. The 3rd and 4th pitches are ultra classic especially for a 5.9 climber. Walk off the top to the east. Dec 27, 2005
Does anybody have any information on the route that is to the left of Wunsch's Simulator? The first pitch goes up a slightly overhanging corner, and the second pitch is a sick looking overhanging thin hands lightning bolt crack. It is one of the sweetest most exposed lines I have ever seen. Jun 24, 2003
Bush [League] and Rock Island got torched as well... Jun 24, 2003
The fire never reached the rock up Wigwam except for the Beartooth Spire. How about giving the fire crews a little credit for a lot of hard work instead of this "Forrest Diservice" crap? Nov 22, 2002
Sorry for the false alarm, nasty rumor and I_m glad to hear I was wrong. Had I not left the country after adding that comment, I surely would have gone to check for myself. See ya there for a pint. Nov 9, 2002
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
Damn! Glad to read the Bucksnort isn't gone! Had too many fun times there. Can any of the ladies tell me if the graffiti in the women's room still says "I love Chip Ruckgaber"? I know who wrote it... Sep 17, 2002
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
I can say authoritatively that the Bucksnort Saloon is alive and well.... Consumed a few pitchers not 3 weeks ago at that fine establishment. Sep 11, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I don't think the Bucksnort Saloon burned down, the Hayman Fire never got as far north as Pine. However, Wigwam Dome is very close to the fire perimeter and I can't tell from the fire maps if the trees in the above photo are gone or not. Certainly the access to this area is burned and will be closed for some time.

I had a memorable epic on Wigwam Dome where a huge hailstorm hit halfway up. The hail was funneled down large slabs above us and our belay was like standing under a cement chute vomiting an avalanche of hail. We rapped off through this, really glad to be wearing helmets. Sep 10, 2002
As of spring 2002, on Wigwam dome the first two pitches of El Supremo have new bolts but not the third pitch which has some very long runouts on 5.10 climbing. Rambling Rose has new bolts on its crux pitch but not the one after. One of the new bolts on the crux is a retro bolt and is next to a perfect cam placement. Pow Wow Canal still has the original bolts and could definitely use new ones. The first pitch of Lady Slipper has been retro bolted and is now much safer than it used to be. Also, there is a new route to the right of the headwall on the Sun which looks very interesting. 2-3 pitches and probably at least 5.11. Sep 10, 2002
If you ever get to go back into the Pike Natl Forest, the routes at wigwam were rebolted in the summer of 1999 by Pete Hubble Bill Shnauzer and Fred Kovats. They also replaced all the anchors on the Helens dome routes. Same big expensive stanless bolts, they even used the original holes! Nice job, sooner or later somebodys going to get killed climbing on that 1/4 inch crap! Really lots of fun to climb here now, but they still arent sport climbs by any stretch of the imagination. Jul 9, 2002
The Bucksnort Saloon along with this entire area burned down this summer thanks to the Forrest Diservice. I don't think anyone will be climbing her for a long time.... Jul 9, 2002
Just in case the Bucksnort is closed next time I go, (opens at 4pm on week days) how about adding some of those routes. I'd love to read some more on this area, it seems there is even still some new routes going up plus tons of great ones that are not very well documented in the books. May 7, 2002
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
There used to be a route book kept at the Bucksnort Saloon. If it's still there (and if the saloon is still there), it has some good information and some interesting invective. Check out routes such as Halogen Angels, Better Lock Next Time, Turbo Betty in the Wigwam Dome/Sun and Moon areas; put up by Kyle Copeland, Marc Hirt, Tim Hudgel, John McMullen, Charlie Fowler, Dan Mannix and myself; among others I'm sure. Happy hunting. May 1, 2002

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