Space Oddity (a.k.a. Significant Local)
Avg: 3.9 from 9 votes
Routes in Coke Bottle
|Bell Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Boardwalk T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Dollywood S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Fallout T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Horn's Mother T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Light From Blue Horses T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Mainstreet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Mr. Rockbiter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Never Ending Story T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Revenge of the Nothing T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Sidestreet T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Space Oddity (a.k.a. Significant Local) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|TM Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Young Guns S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|FA:||Frank Dusl, August 15, 1990. Adam Sears?|
|Page Views:||6,595 total, 33/month|
|Shared By:||Alex Shainman on Aug 17, 2001|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki|
DescriptionThe Woo is not limited to offwidths and other ripper cracks for that matter. The killer feldspar crystals embedded in the slabbier angles yield to amazing, intricate face climbing holds. This route is by far the most spectacular face route in the Woo that I have been on.
Begin by soloing up an EZ chimney and belly crawl (every route here has some weirdness) across a ledge to reveal two studded paths. The route out right is Young Guns, 13a... Both routes share the first bolt. Get psyched and launch off for 110' of sustained and devious crystal pimping....
The beta: do hard moves, clip a bolt and repeat for 12 bolts total. There are lots of tricky moves with a cruxy section along the way. AWESOME!
- *Don't pull too hard on the "rest" flake 1/3 of the way up** At the top, you have a choice of 3! anchors...The Fixe ring set (directly above last bolt) seems most prudent for bringing up your second.