Type: Sport
FA: Frank Dusl, August 15, 1990. Adam Sears?
Page Views: 7,080 total · 32/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Aug 17, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

The Woo is not limited to offwidths and other ripper cracks for that matter. The killer feldspar crystals embedded in the slabbier angles yield to amazing, intricate face climbing holds. This route is by far the most spectacular face route in the Woo that I have been on.

Begin by soloing up an EZ chimney and belly crawl (every route here has some weirdness) across a ledge to reveal two studded paths. The route out right is Young Guns, 13a... Both routes share the first bolt. Get psyched and launch off for 110' of sustained and devious crystal pimping....

The beta: do hard moves, clip a bolt and repeat for 12 bolts total. There are lots of tricky moves with a cruxy section along the way. AWESOME!

  • *Don't pull too hard on the "rest" flake 1/3 of the way up** At the top, you have a choice of 3! anchors...The Fixe ring set (directly above last bolt) seems most prudent for bringing up your second.

Protection

12 QDs, two ropes, and stiff front-pointing shoes!

Photos