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Routes in Coke Bottle

Bell Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Boardwalk T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dollywood S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fallout T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horn's Mother T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Light From Blue Horses T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mainstreet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Rockbiter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Never Ending Story T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Revenge of the Nothing T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidestreet T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Space Oddity (a.k.a. Significant Local) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
TM Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Young Guns S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Frank Dusl, August 15, 1990. Adam Sears?
Page Views: 6,595 total, 33/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Aug 17, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

The Woo is not limited to offwidths and other ripper cracks for that matter. The killer feldspar crystals embedded in the slabbier angles yield to amazing, intricate face climbing holds. This route is by far the most spectacular face route in the Woo that I have been on.

Begin by soloing up an EZ chimney and belly crawl (every route here has some weirdness) across a ledge to reveal two studded paths. The route out right is Young Guns, 13a... Both routes share the first bolt. Get psyched and launch off for 110' of sustained and devious crystal pimping....

The beta: do hard moves, clip a bolt and repeat for 12 bolts total. There are lots of tricky moves with a cruxy section along the way. AWESOME!

  • *Don't pull too hard on the "rest" flake 1/3 of the way up** At the top, you have a choice of 3! anchors...The Fixe ring set (directly above last bolt) seems most prudent for bringing up your second.

Protection

12 QDs, two ropes, and stiff front-pointing shoes!

Photos

FA was Adam Sears. I bolted this route, and we all worked on it together. Dusl did Young Guns to the right, but I will confirm that Adam did the FA. Oct 17, 2017
Richard Border
Boulder, CO
Richard Border   Boulder, CO
Super duper route, though I popped a pulley (A4, middle finger) pulling on a crystal. Can't wait to get back on it :) Dec 1, 2016
Alan Doak
boulder, co
 
Alan Doak   boulder, co
 
I'm certain that 60m would get you down from the welded shuts at the top of the route. The middle mark of my 60m was just 7' off the ground, with the rope unweighted and running through all the draws on the route (which goes around the arete).

The welded shuts wouldn't be a very good toprope anchor though, due to rope drag and stretch (and 60m wouldn't be long enough for the 2nd to start at the back of the bombay chimney). Instead, I belayed the 2nd from the ledge on one of the many anchors up there, then did 2 single-rope rappels on the leftmost of the 3 anchors.

Brilliant climb! Aug 3, 2015
double delay
Mancos, CO
double delay   Mancos, CO
Protection here says 2 ropes, will a 70m get you back to the ground? Sep 10, 2014
rob.calm
Loveland, Colorado
rob.calm   Loveland, Colorado
Frank Dusl did the first ascent on August 15, 1990. No doubt in my mind. I belayed him.

rob.calm Aug 2, 2013
djkyote  
FA of this and the 13a was most likely Frank Dusl or one of the guys that worked at his climbing shop in Laramie, circa 1991-93. Jan 11, 2013
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
My partner hates this route. Hates it with the passion of a thousand suns. He's a pretty good crystal pimper, but he could barely operate a zipper for several days after getting liberally worked on this thing. He claims his feet are still numb from it. Back to climbing cracks I suppose. Apr 16, 2004