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Routes in Coke Bottle

12th of Never, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bell Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Boardwalk T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dollywood S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fallout T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horn's Mother T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Light From Blue Horses T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mainstreet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Rockbiter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Never Ending Story T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Revenge of the Nothing T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidestreet T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Space Oddity (a.k.a. Significant Local) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
TM Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Young Guns S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is one of the three prominent, south facing formations of Southeast Central Vedauwoo. It's sunny most of the day. From a distance, it is easily identified as the big bulge separating Fall Wall from Walt's Wall. It is very steep, grooved with vertical water streaks, embedded with warts of foreign rock, split by cracks from finger size to some that can swallow you, and as a general rule, has a gnarly surface. Needless to say, both sport and trad climbs found here kick butt. Some of the routes are 'stuff of legends', and if you can climb them, you will probably become part of the story. Two routes, Silver Salute (5.13b) and Panther of the Weak (5.13a), have seen less than 4 free ascents, and the second pitch of 'Panther' has not seen its first. Maybe it's for you? Your endurance will be tested by the Fourth of July (5.12a, fingers and hands) and Horn's Mother (5.11a, offwidth). Space Oddity (5.12a) ascends an extremely impressive, steep slab on Coke Bottle Right and TM Chimney (5.7+) ascends the entire formation on the inside! How about that for contrast? Mainstreet, the 5.10a offwidth testpiece is located on Coke Bottle Right. So ask yourself, "am I up for the home of the hardmen?". If so, it's all yours.

There's a 2 bolt rap anchor at the top of Fourth of July, and a commonly used rappel down the Fall Wall area (two rappel stations to the bottom, a 60m rope is recommended). Alternatively, you can rappel down the Waterstreak area of Walt's Wall (three rappel stations to the bottom). You can also hike down a well worn path on the 'backside' (NE side) of the formation.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Park in the Fall Wall Parking Lot, hike up to Fall Wall and look directly west. It starts with 'Coke Bottle Right', that ominous, steep slab that you are looking at - and continues around the corner. (As above, it separates Fall Wall from Walt's Wall.) You simply can't miss it

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Classic Climbing Routes at Coke Bottle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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