Type: Trad, 120 ft, Grade III
FA: Mark Hesse, 1972
Page Views: 15,326 total · 81/month
Shared By: david goldstein on May 30, 2003
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


90 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a long grind and a good intro to 5.10 offwidth. It is considerably harder than Grand Giraffe but much easier than Crack of Fear. The crux section is fairly short and well-protected, but it is followed by a long stretch of 5.7 - 5.8 chimney that is likely to be runout. This is route #2 on the Coke Bottle overview photo.

Ascend 20' easily to two side-by-side bolts which mark the start of the difficulties. The next 15' are bulgey and the crux of the climb. Several small holds on the left keep the climbing from being too desperate. A #5 Camalot cam be walked through most of this section, but be careful as the crack gradually widens. The crux is over when you grab a chickenhead on the right from which you can reach a bolt. Continue for about 20', offwidth widening to squeeze, to another bolt, using the crack and chickenheads on the right; shortly before the 2nd bolt a large chickenhead can be draped with a full length sling. After the second bolt the crack is squeeze chimney and wider; Big bros provide most pro opportunities though another #5 Camalot coult probably be placed near the top; at any rate, you probably want some sort of gear plan for this section as it is 40 or 50' from the last bolt to the anchors. Eventually you reach a ledge which has bolt anchors about 10' to the right of the crack. Belaying at the end of the crack, rather than at the bolts, provides a more comfortable and directionally superior belay; I used a medium nut and a #4 Camalot for this anchor but a variety of different sized pieces would work.

From the belay, either rap 120' from the bolt anchors or climb Mr. Rockbiter 50' of slabby 10a with 6 bolts.

Note that much of the grunting and scraping can be avoided by stemming outside of the crack, an easier but much less secure option probably best utilized by the second.

Protection

At least 1 #5 Camalot (it would be nice to also have a #6 Friend) and at least 1 #3 Big Bro. Long slings. A couple of medium nuts for a directional at the end of the pitch.
This climb is a grade III? Wow! Aug 20, 2003
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
Hmmm... personally speaking, offwidths DO take me a long time... maybe Grade III is close to accurate. Aug 20, 2003
Regardless of how long it takes you Jake, it still is not a grade III. A grade three typically consists of multiple pitches,up to seven I believe. No single pitch climb could ever be a grade III. However Mainstreet is a long & difficult pitch. Aug 21, 2003
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
You'd think I'd have learned my lesson my now, but apparently not -- sarcasm doesn't transmit well in e-mails or internet postings. I was merely poking fun at my own lack of grace and skill on off-widths, and generally agree with Edward's assessment on the grading issue for Mainstreet. I'd probably consider a Grade III a little broader, though, so as to include "all day" routes like Epinephrine at Red Rocks. The 14 pitches there definitely add up to more than Grade II, but I'm not sure I'd consider it Grade IV. Aug 21, 2003
Didn't mean to bust your chops there, Jake. I find these grading systems to be very inconsistent, so I always like to ask other climbers view on this matter. Aug 21, 2003
david goldstein
  5.10a
david goldstein  
  5.10a
Just to set the record straight, the Grade III I assigned to this one pitch climb when I posted it was a typo.

It's really a Grade IV. Aug 21, 2003
Why not make it a grade VII? Aug 22, 2003
Joe Collins  
 
Wow, a wide crack that's actually fun! This would be a great intro to 5.10 OW. There are 3 bolts on this climb... one at the start, one at the end of the crux, and one in the upper section (I find the presence of these bolts to be curious considering this is well protected with modern OW gear). 2 #5 camalots and 1 #3 bigbro worked great as the rack for this climb... anything smaller is extra weight. The crux is as well protected as OW gets, but you should be a solid at 5.8 chimneys since you have to run it out for long stretches on the upper part.

As fun and classic as OW gets. Sep 29, 2003
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
The bolts are for an adjacent face route, the Kopischka classic Neverending Story. Just convenient that you can reach some of them from the offwidth. May 18, 2004
The couple bolts on Mainstreet were put there prior to big gear I believe. The first bolt used to be a hideous 1/4 that I replaced in 1997. Sure you can get gear in nearby but people still clipped it so I replaced it. The upper bolt is too far away to be part of Neverending Story and has been there a while. Jan 16, 2006
KevinCO
Loveland, CO
KevinCO   Loveland, CO
Don't forget to use elbow protection (neoprene pads or strectch tape). I ground crystals into my elbow, chickenwinging and it became infected. I finished on Kopischka, an exciting face climb. Actually, i bailed out of the unprotected chimney onto the bolted climb, which was quite hard after offwidth exhaustion. Mar 26, 2006
Danny Inman
Arvada
 
Danny Inman   Arvada
 
This is a great off-width experience. Don't let the second bolt on the right side seduce you into starting left side in. I tried this fell out, went right side in and felt is was significantly easier. Combined with Mr. Rockbiter, you could not ask for two more different pitches-four stars! Apr 24, 2006
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
  5.10a
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
  5.10a
FA: Mark Hesse, 1972. Jun 18, 2006
Mike D
Fort Collins, CO
Mike D   Fort Collins, CO
Hey Wade:
When you replaced that first bolt, (thanks for that), did you give any thought to moving it to the left wall? I asked because I aways perform an awkward clip from right-side in and then turn around to left-side in which I feel more comfortable doing AFTER I clip the bolt.
Mike. May 19, 2008
No, I actually just pulled the 1/4"er and redrilled the hole to accomodate a 3/8th inch. I think that the bolt is unecessary but if people are gonna clip it, might as well be bomber. Jul 31, 2008
Dan F
  5.9
Dan F  
  5.9
A little less intense than what can be typically be expected from Vedauwoo 5.10. Lots of good rests. Hardest part is being comfortable with the gear. Awesome climb. Jan 3, 2010
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
 
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
 
"It does not matter how slowly you go as long as you do not stop."

- Confucius Jun 7, 2010
slim

  5.10a
slim    
  5.10a
"Unless you are paying by the minute" - some dude in the red light district. Jun 7, 2010
Andrew McLean
Eldoorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Andrew McLean   Eldoorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
I was wondering what 5.10 offwidth felt like at Vedauwoo, so I led this today. Great rests along the way. I sure wish I had saved my #6 Camalot for after the last bolt. I had to run it all the way to the chains on a fully tipped out #5 that was basically worthless. Bigbros or 2 #6s would have been nice. Oh the joys of onsight climbing.

Classic route indeed. Jul 25, 2010
Tim Sinson
  5.10a
Tim Sinson  
  5.10a
Lots of fun. Took 3 #6 pieces 1 #4 Bigbro and small stopper (or purple/green Camalot would work). Also took two #5 Camalots (new school Black Diamond....what were they thinking?) DID NOT PLACE #5 Camalots. Aug 7, 2010
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Amazing route! My favorite OW at Vedauwoo so far. And easier than it looks. R side in at the start. Switch later. Surprising that it's lead up on so little gear, but the 3 bolts help. We used a 0.75 Camalot to start, 2x #6 Camalot, 1x #4 Bigbro, shoulder slings, and draws for the bolts. New #5 Camalot didn't fit. 60m doesn't reach the ground, but there is a bolted anchor halfway up the slab, so easy to get off with 2 raps. May 21, 2012
justin hausmann
Fort collins
justin hausmann   Fort collins
A #6 fits almost the whole way. Was just tipped for a short section. Walk it or take more. The bolted anchors were easily rapped of with a 70m. Started right side in for the good feet, then switched after crux to left in from the chickenhead. Gets shade after 3 this time of year. Jul 24, 2013
crackatoa Spiesbach
Boulder,Co
 
crackatoa Spiesbach   Boulder,Co
 
2 #6s would be nice, but I think to lead this bad boy all you need is 1 #6 on blue and 1 green Big Bro. The #6 goes in 90% of the way, and you can get in a one of the Big Bros in the two sections it won't fit. The three bolts fill in the gaps. A #5 was just on my rack for show. Oct 17, 2016
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
 
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
 
Left a pretty new condition number 5 at the base of Mainstreet the other day. If anyone found it and wants to get it back to me, I wouldn't leave ya empty handed. Seth: (716) 679 6012 Jul 18, 2017