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Routes in Coke Bottle

Bell Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Boardwalk T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dollywood S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fallout T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horn's Mother T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Light From Blue Horses T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mainstreet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Rockbiter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Never Ending Story T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Revenge of the Nothing T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidestreet T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Space Oddity (a.k.a. Significant Local) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
TM Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Young Guns S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FFA: D. McClure & M, Hesse, 73 (J. Horn '65 with aid),
Page Views: 15,674 total, 77/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 30, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Horn's Mother is the overhanging, leaning, off-fist crack to the right of Edward's Crack on the Coke Bottle, of Walt's Wall. It is shaded in the Walt's Wall photo, attached.

The route is a must for lover's of offwidth, but it will abuse the wide-crack virgins. The two guys that followed me loved it, but they lost both Pride and blood on the route. From the first belay, one can walk two #4 Camalots up the crack for 40' or so with an occasional rest until the crack begins to taper down. Be prepared to overheat on the strenuous climb. People with small hands may find the climb hard at its grade. People with large hands might find it easier.

Protection

The crux is 10-15 feet from the ground pulling out of a small roof/overhang a few moves above a 3-4" cam. 25-30' up there is a fixed belay. From there, the pro goes to #4 Camalots for 40 feet, until the crack begins to taper down, gradually narrowing to 2 inches at the top. Fixed anchors are at the top and a 70m rope will get you down with minimal effort. A single 50m can be used if you make 2 rappels onto Walt's Wall.
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
Excellent line. The crux pitch is fun, but the money is on the second pitch. Get some.... Jun 8, 2014
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Just for the record, this 4 star meg-classic, FULLY sandbagged 11a can bite me. Aug 27, 2011
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
We met Big Bob doing this in '83- he told us it was 10. Hanging out with Connie was way more fun. Sep 2, 2010
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
I don't see how anything you can fit your whole hand inside could possibly be....

Nevermind.

5.11a.

I love this climb. Jul 27, 2009
Wow, what a shot with the guy doing this with shorts on, guy is a dude! Apr 29, 2009
Nate26  
Great route. Quite an effort. More of a fist crack than a real ow for me. Sep 14, 2008
I didn't see a fixed anchor either and used #1 cams and #3 cams to build one. I would also add that rapping from the chains atop 4th July crack with a 70 meter rope won't get you down with minimal effort. However, if you go to the ends of your rope, you should be at a small ledge partway up walt's wall, and an easy down climb will get you to the dirt. Aug 14, 2008
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11a
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11a
I would agree that this is a possible sandbag (unless you have huge hands like Bob S.). At the crux I had to shove my whole arm in the crack to get a fist jam, but was only able to get one arm in at a time which made upward progress a little problematic. May 4, 2007
Aeon Aki    
 
I was the "foo" who had to lower and climb that nasty crux again, and again, and again... Oct 1, 2006
TBD
 
TBD  
 
"but lost both Pride and blood on the route" - I resemble that comment. This route is very sustained and requires a tremendous outlay of energy. The first short pitch may be a bit of a sandbag, but I'm a relative fist crack newb. Aug 9, 2004
I also walked a couple large cams up what would be the second pitch. This created some problems for my second. In a fall, he would have swung left onto Walt's Wall with no possible way to get back on route. I pity the foo' who has to lower, and climb that nasty crux again. Jul 10, 2002
What? Who designed this page, Horns is on the Coke Bottle not Walt's wall. Minor detail I know, but with a decent guide book around, at least the route locations should be correct. It is however a great route. Aug 16, 2001
This is a great route, crux is tough (thanks Tony for leading it after I fell off a few times). 2nd pitch very sustained also. Aug 7, 2001