Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FFA: D. McClure & M, Hesse, 73 (J. Horn '65 with aid),
Page Views: 16,336 total · 76/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 30, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


Horn's Mother is the overhanging, leaning, off-fist crack to the right of Edward's Crack on the Coke Bottle, of Walt's Wall. It is shaded in the Walt's Wall photo, attached.

The route is a must for lover's of offwidth, but it will abuse the wide-crack virgins. The two guys that followed me loved it, but they lost both Pride and blood on the route. From the first belay, one can walk two #4 Camalots up the crack for 40' or so with an occasional rest until the crack begins to taper down. Be prepared to overheat on the strenuous climb. People with small hands may find the climb hard at its grade. People with large hands might find it easier.


The crux is 10-15 feet from the ground pulling out of a small roof/overhang a few moves above a 3-4" cam. 25-30' up there is a fixed belay. From there, the pro goes to #4 Camalots for 40 feet, until the crack begins to taper down, gradually narrowing to 2 inches at the top. Fixed anchors are at the top and a 70m rope will get you down with minimal effort. A single 50m can be used if you make 2 rappels onto Walt's Wall.
This is a great route, crux is tough (thanks Tony for leading it after I fell off a few times). 2nd pitch very sustained also. Aug 7, 2001
What? Who designed this page, Horns is on the Coke Bottle not Walt's wall. Minor detail I know, but with a decent guide book around, at least the route locations should be correct. It is however a great route. Aug 16, 2001
I also walked a couple large cams up what would be the second pitch. This created some problems for my second. In a fall, he would have swung left onto Walt's Wall with no possible way to get back on route. I pity the foo' who has to lower, and climb that nasty crux again. Jul 10, 2002
"but lost both Pride and blood on the route" - I resemble that comment. This route is very sustained and requires a tremendous outlay of energy. The first short pitch may be a bit of a sandbag, but I'm a relative fist crack newb. Aug 9, 2004
Aeon Aki    
I was the "foo" who had to lower and climb that nasty crux again, and again, and again... Oct 1, 2006
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
I would agree that this is a possible sandbag (unless you have huge hands like Bob S.). At the crux I had to shove my whole arm in the crack to get a fist jam, but was only able to get one arm in at a time which made upward progress a little problematic. May 4, 2007
I didn't see a fixed anchor either and used #1 cams and #3 cams to build one. I would also add that rapping from the chains atop 4th July crack with a 70 meter rope won't get you down with minimal effort. However, if you go to the ends of your rope, you should be at a small ledge partway up walt's wall, and an easy down climb will get you to the dirt. Aug 14, 2008
Great route. Quite an effort. More of a fist crack than a real ow for me. Sep 14, 2008
Larry Bruce
Whitefish, MT
Larry Bruce   Whitefish, MT
Wow, what a shot with the guy doing this with shorts on, guy is a dude! Apr 29, 2009
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
I don't see how anything you can fit your whole hand inside could possibly be....



I love this climb. Jul 27, 2009
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
We met Big Bob doing this in '83- he told us it was 10. Hanging out with Connie was way more fun. Sep 2, 2010
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Just for the record, this 4 star meg-classic, FULLY sandbagged 11a can bite me. Aug 27, 2011
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
Excellent line. The crux pitch is fun, but the money is on the second pitch. Get some.... Jun 8, 2014
Anchors are still on top of the first pitch. Hard but worth doing. Aug 27, 2018
Mitch Friedeman
Boulder, CO
Mitch Friedeman   Boulder, CO
Holy hell this thing is awesome, big, and hard. Climbed it 2 days ago, and I'm still aggressively sore, especially on the right side of my body. I led the thing in one pitch and had 4 #4s, 4 #3s, 2 #2s, and 1#1 and had enough gear for a 3 piece anchor up top. This did require quite a bit of walking those #4s, but it all felt comfortable. The bottom before the first anchor is a sandbag, but the rest of this climb is so money. Classic burlfest. Sep 17, 2018