Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FFA: D. McClure & M, Hesse, 73 (J. Horn '65 with aid),
Page Views: 17,799 total · 77/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 30, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Horn's Mother is the overhanging, leaning, off-fist crack to the right of Edward's Crack on the Coke Bottle, of Walt's Wall. It is shaded in the Walt's Wall photo, attached.

The route is a must for lover's of offwidth, but it will abuse the wide-crack virgins. The two guys that followed me loved it, but they lost both Pride and blood on the route. From the first belay, one can walk two #4 Camalots up the crack for 40' or so with an occasional rest until the crack begins to taper down. Be prepared to overheat on the strenuous climb. People with small hands may find the climb hard at its grade. People with large hands might find it easier.

Protection

The crux is 10-15 feet from the ground pulling out of a small roof/overhang a few moves above a 3-4" cam. 25-30' up there is a fixed belay. From there, the pro goes to #4 Camalots for 40 feet, until the crack begins to taper down, gradually narrowing to 2 inches at the top. Fixed anchors are at the top and a 70m rope will get you down with minimal effort. A single 50m can be used if you make 2 rappels onto Walt's Wall.

Photos