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Routes in Coke Bottle

12th of Never, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bell Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Boardwalk T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dollywood S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fallout T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horn's Mother T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Light From Blue Horses T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mainstreet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Rockbiter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Never Ending Story T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Revenge of the Nothing T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidestreet T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Space Oddity (a.k.a. Significant Local) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
TM Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Young Guns S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Piana, Tim Coats, and Craig Reason, 1987.
Page Views: 1,479 total · 9/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 6, 2004
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


Climb the crux of Boardwalk (2nd pitch), and park in the rest pod. Look for a series of cobbles heading left. This is Light From Blue Horses. Traverse the stone warts past three bolts to a hanging belay. The next pitch is the crux. Climb up the obvious water groove past several ring bolts. Crimp, paste and palm your way up this featureless channel. There is a big run at the top of this pitch. Make sure your shoes are clean before you embark on this 40 foot section. Belay from gear.

This climb is very engaging for the grade.


Quickdraws and gear for Boardwalk.


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Squatting Bear
Squatting Bear  
Excellent exposure. I did the traverse from Boardwalk and the vertical section in one pitch. Minimal rope drag and I used 9 quickdraws (I used one to clip the anchor). The runout section is low 5th class, and not scary considering the climb you just finished, but still wouldn't want to slip. Sep 12, 2009

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