Never Ending Story
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Routes in Coke Bottle
|Bell Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Boardwalk T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Dollywood S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Fallout T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Horn's Mother T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Light From Blue Horses T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Mainstreet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Mr. Rockbiter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Never Ending Story T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Revenge of the Nothing T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Sidestreet T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Space Oddity (a.k.a. Significant Local) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|TM Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Young Guns S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 110 ft|
|FA:||Layne Kopischka, 1981|
|Page Views:||1,103 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||Jason Haas on Jun 18, 2006|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki|
DescriptionStart up Mainstreet and just after the crux, clip the bolt on the right face and head for the face. A bolted anchor is slightly to the right of this bolt which is used as an intermediate anchor when rappelling rather than climbing up. From this anchor, climb straight up the line of bolts crimping the small crystals along the way. Do not traverse directly right after the third bolt. This would be the Revenge of the Nothing. Instead continue straight up, staying near the crack of Mainstreet.
There is a direct to this route as well, making a more obvious, plumb line. For this, start to the right of Mainstreet and go up an offwidth/chimney formed by the boulder and the main wall. Once on top of this block, climb the seam up to a small roof and bust over some good edges to link up with the lower bolted anchor part of the original route. This start is harder than the original line, around 5.11c. Placing gear is hard and tricky, perhaps warranting an "R". According to Kelman, he said no one had lead it before, which is probably smart. FFA: Jason Haas, Jorge Mario Londano 06/06.
A 70 meter rope will just get you down from the anchors unless you continue up on Mr. Rockbiter.
ProtectionA bunch of quickdraws and a #5 Camalot for the start of Mainstreet.
Bring small cams if doing the direct start.
- No Photos -