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Routes in Coke Bottle

Bell Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Boardwalk T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dollywood S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fallout T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horn's Mother T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Light From Blue Horses T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mainstreet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Rockbiter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Never Ending Story T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Revenge of the Nothing T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidestreet T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Space Oddity (a.k.a. Significant Local) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
TM Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Young Guns S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: ???
Page Views: 4,534 total · 24/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Aug 14, 2002
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is route 1 on the photo of the Coke Bottle. This is an area classic which is marred by a potentially dangerous pure hanging belay. Start on the east side of the Coke Bottle, at the bottom of Bell Crack.

P1 (5.10): climb Bell Crack (chimney ~5.9) to the very obvious horizontal crack. Hand traverse left for about 30' until beneath the Boardwalk Crack. This traverse has very few footholds and while technically straightforward is quite strenous, especially placing gear. The belay is 100% hanging -- there are no footholds. If possible, set up the belay far enough to the left of the vertical crack to eliminate the risk of the P2 leader falling on the belayer.

P2 (5.11b): plough up the crack for about 25' to a rest. This crux section starts as #1.5 Friends and goes down to #1 Friends and widens to thin #2 Friends at the end. The crack is flared and climbs wider than the gear. The technical crux is probably the #1 section. If the belayer is directly below the crack, the crux is placing enough gear so that you won't crush him/her if you fall while at the same time not using up all your #1 and #1.5 pieces Continue up the crack for another 80 or so feet of easy hands and chimney. I am not sure where the best belay is. There is a hangerless 3/8" bolt about 90' into the pitch. We belayed on a ledge about 120'. From here, it's a class 3 scramble to the top.

Protection

2 each #0.5 Friend through #3.5 Friend. Extra #1s and #1.5s are helpful for P2. I used #4 Rock size pieces for the 2nd belay. A #4.5 or #5 Camalot is useful but not essential at the start and would be an impediment for the rest of the route.
Mark Rolofson
  5.11c
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11c
It has been about 24 years since I last climbed this route. I did it in one pitch using double ropes. Doing it as a two pitch climb should really be rated 5.11b A0, as there is not a no hands rest stance at the belay at the end of the traverse. Led in one pitch, the climb feels like solid 5.11c.

The first rope protects the traverse. The second rope protects the vertical crack.
Jun 26, 2017
JNE
 
JNE  
 
You can also rap off of Fourth of July, which only requires one rope, but two raps. Jun 28, 2006
Jason Haas  
 
Great route! There are bolted anchors on the right slab after you go through the gully/chimney on top. Double rope rap. Jun 18, 2006
JNE
 
JNE  
 
Absolutely spectacular, possibly the best 5.11 in all of Vedauwoo, and one of the best cracks anywhere. Magnifacent position, good exposure, and excellent rock and climbing, not to mention a beautiful line.

For the hanging belay bring #3.5 to #4 Friend sized gear. This will let you set it off to the left and therefore out of harms way, and make it convenient to swap leads. May 28, 2006