Avg: 4 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1300 ft, 16 pitches, Grade VI|
|FA:||Chris Cantwell and Scott Burke|
|Page Views:||6,588 total · 94/month|
|Shared By:||Alan Doak on Oct 2, 2014|
|Admins:||M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
The bottom pitches are glassy smooth, lower angle, and hugely runout. Your shoes will squeak on the polished granite, and you'll have to keep moving lest your feet creep off. If you do blow it, at least your belayer will have time to reel in armloads of slack as you slide down the climb.
At pitch 4-6, you'll have the choice of the original line which goes straight up, or the Spring Time Dry variation to the left.
Above pitch 7, The Hang, the climb becomes gradually ever steeper, harder, and better bolted (though it's still spicy).
On pitch 14, head left to the Flake In The Sky bivy ledge. After that, 2 pitches up and right to the U-Shaped Bowl. From there, follow Coonyard to Rim, or rappel the route (all anchors are equipped with rap rings).
Shoes take a lot of abuse on this climb, especially on the long sliding falls. People have reported burning through multiple pairs of shoes while working on (and falling off) a single move.
FA - Chris Cantwell, Scott Burke, 9/80
added the final pitches 13-16
5 days on continuous ascent
a couple of short sections of p13 were toproped, instead of led. In these sections, the bolts were placed as aid ladders, then the leader lowered to free the moves, but left the rope clipped in from the aid high point.
2nd FA - Jonny Woodward, John Bercaw, 10/92
1 day on continuous ascent
Preparation (10/92): 2 days, mostly for bolt replacement (p13-16)
Preparation (5/92): 4 days, including establishing the "Springtime Dry Variation", Jonny Woodward and Darrell Hensel.
3rd FA - Alex Honnold, Oct 19th, 2011.
Climbing #141, AAJ '82 [Edit: , Mountain #69]
Early pitches freed
p9-12, started p13 - 5.12c - Chris Cantwell, Scott Cole, 1979
p3-8.5 - 5.12b - Dave Austin, Chris Cantwell, Bruce Morris, 1978
p1-2 - 5.11a - Mark Wilford, 1975