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Routes in Glacier Point Apron - Center

Coonyard Pinnacle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Day light to Midnight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Galactic Hitchhiker T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Goblet, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Goodrich Pinnacle-Left Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goodrich Pinnacle-Right Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goodrich to the Oasis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hall of Mirrors T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Hanging Pillar T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
McPherson Struts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Monday Morning Slab, Chouinard Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monday Morning Slab, Harry Daley Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monday Morning Slab, Left Side T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Monday Morning Slab, Right Side T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Patio Pinnacle, Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Variation on a Theme T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 1300 ft, 16 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Chris Cantwell and Scott Burke
Page Views: 3,321 total, 85/month
Shared By: Alan Doak on Oct 2, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron Details
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Quite possibly the best slab climb in the world. 16 pitches of granite slab, comprised of various angles and texture, all of them amazing.

The bottom pitches are glassy smooth, lower angle, and hugely runout. Your shoes will squeak on the polished granite, and you'll have to keep moving lest your feet creep off. If you do blow it, at least your belayer will have time to reel in armloads of slack as you slide down the climb.

At pitch 4-6, you'll have the choice of the original line which goes straight up, or the Spring Time Dry variation to the left.

Above pitch 7, The Hang, the climb becomes gradually ever steeper, harder, and better bolted (though it's still spicy).

On pitch 14, head left to the Flake In The Sky bivy ledge. After that, 2 pitches up and right to the U-Shaped Bowl. From there, follow Coonyard to Rim, or rappel the route (all anchors are equipped with rap rings).

Shoes take a lot of abuse on this climb, especially on the long sliding falls. People have reported burning through multiple pairs of shoes while working on (and falling off) a single move.


Free Ascents
FA - Chris Cantwell, Scott Burke, 9/80
added the final pitches 13-16
5 days on continuous ascent
a couple of short sections of p13 were toproped, instead of led. In these sections, the bolts were placed as aid ladders, then the leader lowered to free the moves, but left the rope clipped in from the aid high point.
2nd FA - Jonny Woodward, John Bercaw, 10/92
1 day on continuous ascent
Preparation (10/92): 2 days, mostly for bolt replacement (p13-16)
Preparation (5/92): 4 days, including establishing the "Springtime Dry Variation", Jonny Woodward and Darrell Hensel.
3rd FA - Alex Honnold, Oct 19th, 2011.
Climbing #141, AAJ '82 [Edit: , Mountain #69]
Early pitches freed
p9-12, started p13 - 5.12c - Chris Cantwell, Scott Cole, 1979
p3-8.5 - 5.12b - Dave Austin, Chris Cantwell, Bruce Morris, 1978
p1-2 - 5.11a - Mark Wilford, 1975

Location

Hall of Mirrors is the first route to the left of Goodrich Pinnacle.

Protection

#1 and #2 friends, many quickdraws. All bolts and anchors have been recently upgraded to modern hardware.
John,

actually, 'foonting' was named after the character from the Robert Crumb/Mr. Natural comics, Flakey Foont. Sep 19, 2016
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
"Foonting" was the technique when your EB's squeeked on the smears and you had to keep going.

Named for Jeff Foont Dec 26, 2015
Alan Doak
boulder, co
 
Alan Doak   boulder, co
 
Topo can be found here:
stanford.edu/~clint/yos/hal… Oct 3, 2014