Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson & Tom Englebach, 4/86
Page Views: 405 total · 3/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Nov 23, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This is a tips and toes test-piece. Pass the first two on Ramblin' Rose, then a sharp finger traverse, just above the third bolt, leads left to the power-stemming crux. Logical first pitch to El Supremo because it stays in the groove.

Not a good lead until new bolts go in.

Location

In the Wigwam Dome amphitheater, where all the waterfalls land when it rains.

Protection

All the bolts need replacing. However the anchor makes for a nice top rope.

Photos

Alan Doak
boulder, co
Alan Doak   boulder, co
While the bolts could definitely be updated, the crux move is protected with an old, rusty 3/8" bolt (as opposed to old rusty 1/4" buttonheads everywhere else), and the buttonheads are spaced closely enough that 2 would have to break before you hurt yourself. Augment your rack with a few small cams (#0.3-0.75 Camalots).

The crystals are sharp, I sliced open a fingertip at the crux. Bring some tape and/or superglue in case you need to patch yourself up. Jun 15, 2015
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
  5.12a PG13
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
  5.12a PG13
First ascent: Mark Rolofson & Tom Englebach in April 1986. I returned on two occasions in the '90s to repeat it. Every time we did this pitch, we continued up El Supremo. Makes a great climb even better. The crux is dead vertical. In fact, I remember it bulging slightly past vertical for a few moves. The climb is well-protected except for the runout 5.8/9 slab finish. The last time I did this route, I thought the finish was pretty scary. Don't fall! The route was hand drilled, so I placed only the bolts I absolutely needed. I am sure the bolts need replacing. Feb 4, 2019
Tom Kelley  
 
This pitch vies with the crux pitch of Warpath as being my favorites on Wigwam, which is one of my favorite formations in the South Platte. Mar 29, 2019