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Dos Equis Direct
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in West Face - Right Side
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Acrobat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Angle Iron Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Coffin Nail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crimes of Passion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Desperado TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dos Equis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dos Equis Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Edge, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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El Camino Real T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fingergrip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fingertip Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Fingertrip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hangover, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Jensen's Jaunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Last Judgment T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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On the Road T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pearly Gate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pigs in Bondage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Point Blank T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Shit for Brains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slab, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Ten Years After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Toe Tip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Traitor Horn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Turbo Flange T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unknown? T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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West Face Grand Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 33.75985, -116.68542 |
| FA: | Bob Gaines and Frank Bentwood, 2010. |
| Page Views: | 230 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Oct 18, 2023 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
With a direct first pitch and a direct start to the second pitch, this makes for a better and more challenging climb than the original Dos Equis route.
Pitch 1. Begin about 40 feet up the 4th class gully for Fingertip Traverse.
Climb a flake leading out to the right, then up to a thin crack with a bolt (5.8). Move right across a right-slanting ramp up to a second bolt that protects thin slab moves (10c) up to the third bolt on the second pitch of El Camino Real. Traverse left to the Jungle Ledge belay.
Pitch 2: From the lower right edge of Jungle Ledge, crank a short, steep section past two bolts (11a) onto the outside face of the exposed slab, then up easier face climbing past two bolts. A fifth bolt protects the psychological crux: slightly runout 10c face moves up to a crack that leads to a 2-bolt belay/rappel anchor.
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