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Routes in West Face - Right Side

Acrobat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle Iron Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffin Nail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crimes of Passion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dos Equis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Edge, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
El Camino Real T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingergrip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fingertip Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fingertrip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangover, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jensen's Jaunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last Judgment T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On the Road T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pearly Gate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pigs in Bondage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Point Blank T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shit for Brains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slab, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ten Years After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toe Tip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traitor Horn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown? T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
West Face Grand Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Unknown?
Page Views: 202 total, 2/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jul 15, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

4 bolts up the steep headwall just left of the Hangover. 11+ ?

Protection

4 bolts. Once over the roof, there is a 2-bolt anchor just up and left.

Photos

natebloser
  5.11b/c
natebloser  
  5.11b/c
Climbed this again after several years. I think Bob is right. Not really 4 stars. The line is short and the rock quality is not perfect. Still some cool moves and worth doing. Jun 24, 2014
Bob Gaines  
 
I haven't done it...just posted it here to get any info for the next guidebook. I'll take natebloser's word on the rating. Anyone else done it? Looks like a good pitch.

Anyone know the name of the route or who did the FA? It's been there for probably at least ten years! Oct 4, 2011
What did it feel like to you Bob when you climbed it? Oct 4, 2011
Bob Gaines  
 
Four stars? Like....right up there with the very best of the best routes on Tahquitz? Oct 3, 2011
natebloser
  5.11b/c
natebloser  
  5.11b/c
We did this today after climbing El Camino Real. Big time fun. Crux is between bolts 3 and 4. Pulling the roof is magic. I rate it 11b/c. 4 stars. Oct 3, 2011