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Routes in West Face - Right Side

Acrobat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle Iron Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffin Nail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crimes of Passion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dos Equis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Edge, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
El Camino Real T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingergrip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fingertip Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fingertrip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangover, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jensen's Jaunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last Judgment T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On the Road T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pearly Gate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pigs in Bondage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Point Blank T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shit for Brains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slab, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ten Years After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toe Tip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traitor Horn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown? T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
West Face Grand Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ray Van Aken, Ivan Weeks, and Curt Kreiser, June 1947
Page Views: 2,367 total, 17/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Do the easy (3rd and 4th class) first two pitches of Fingertip Traverse. From the large, brushy ledge system, climb the large, left-facing corner directly to the right of the Fingertip Traverse lieback. This 130’ long pitch involves some face moves and liebacks, with good rests between the hard moves. Above the crux, the dihedral arches to the left, with easy but insecure traversing on low angle rock. A 4th class pitch leads to Lunch Ledge.

Protection

standard rack
Ted Smith
Scottsdale, AZ
Ted Smith   Scottsdale, AZ
From the top of the first pitch of Fingertrip, the best of Fingergrip can be accessed. Heading straight for the upper part of the left-facing dihedral, you will see a dwindling finger crack with a piton in the midsection. Clip the piton and step right on steep slab. Leaning into the dihedral as you let go of the finger crack, there will be a moment of freedom from any hand holds, then you are in the dihedral and moving up. Spicy and fun! Not recommended with anything less than a 70 meter, as it was definitely more than 200 feet to a good belay point. No need to simul to the lunch ledge if you have a 70 meter as the top can easily be reached from the belay atop Fingergrip. Three pitches, bottom of Fingertrip to top of the mountain makes for a nice adventure with no hassles. May 25, 2014
Tradiban
  5.8
Tradiban  
  5.8
A little gardening and no pro coming out of The Jungle, but it shapes up quickly, fun if you've done all the other moderates on the wall. Sep 29, 2013
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.8
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.8
As with Guideline #1, I'm not posting this to be a jerk. Consider it essential beta for the route (no offense, page author)....

The first pitch of Fingertip Traverse DOES reach Jungle Ledge in one single pitch (175'). Set the belay near the base of the next pitch for 'Fingergrip' (don't move all the way right on Jungle Ledge or you'll find yourself climbing 'El Camino Real' .10a!). 'Fingergrip' can be done in a full pitch (200'). This gives you 10' of rope remaining when you reach the oak trees, just slightly below Lunch Ledge (which joins with the upper pitches of 'Fingertrip'). Make sure you place slings on pro placements for this pitch or you'll have a bit of rope drag. Also, take care to place gear for the follower when traversing the arch in the last 35' to the trees. Move the belay to Lunch Ledge (20' up and left by simuling). From Lunch Ledge, essentially head straight up steep ledges to the finishing slab above (lone single bolt protects the last 50'). May 21, 2012