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Routes in West Face - Right Side

Acrobat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle Iron Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffin Nail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crimes of Passion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dos Equis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Edge, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
El Camino Real T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingergrip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fingertip Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fingertrip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangover, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jensen's Jaunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last Judgment T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On the Road T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pearly Gate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pigs in Bondage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Point Blank T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shit for Brains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slab, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ten Years After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toe Tip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traitor Horn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown? T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
West Face Grand Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob Gaines & Ann Albert, June 1986
Page Views: 223 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 9, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Solid climbing on good rock. Interesting if El Camino Real is busy. Somewhat of a variation of El Camino. P2 is solid and not that flaky crap that's on some of the seldom traveled routes.

P1: 5.10a Start as per El Camino Real and head up to the overlap and left. Instead of following the easier ground to the top of the El Camino Real P1 pillar, head left across face climbing and a bush to another crack system with 5.9 climbing and some bushes. Stop Below Jungle ledge and belay.

P2: short pitch to jungle ledge.

P3: Start up the El Camino Real lieback. Just above the treetop there is a spot where you can exit the lieback and climb right onto the top of the dihedral (hard 5.10 move). Once on the face, clip a bolt (buttonhead, but looked good). Climb up the right side arete for a bit of easier 5.10 climbing for about 20' to the next bolt. Clip this and welcome to the crux. Intricate slab (2 moves) gaines a good crack. Finishes at a 2 bolt rap station (good bolts)

P4-5: Follow El Camino Real, Jensen's Jaunt, or Pigs in Bondage to the top

A great way to TR the sweet P3 is to do El Camino Real and climb up and right from the El Camino P3 anchors (easy 5th) 20' and gain this 2 bolt station and TR the route.

Location

Starts as per El Camino Real near the No Top Pine Tree on the bouldery 5.10a start just left of an incipient crack to an overlap.

Right of Fingertip Traverse and left of Jensen's Jaunt.

Walkoff Friction Traverse.

Protection

Several thin to 2 inches

Photos

tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
There is now a great bolted direct start to P3. Step right from Jungle ledge, and do a steep move up the arete, approx 11a. May 14, 2012

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