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Areas in West Face

Lunch Rock 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
West Face - Center (Flintstone Slab) 19 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
West Face - Left Side 19 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
West Face - Right Side 24 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24

Description

This area features a range of climbs from 5.3 to 5.10.

Getting There

The trailhead is just below the start of the Devil's Slide hiking trail. Hike down a short hill to the creek and then follow the trail as it wraps around a hillside. After approx. .3 miles take a left trail climb that climbs the steep hillside above to the base of Tahquitz.

65 Total Climbs

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Location: (g) West Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 251
The Trough
Trad 4 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 129
Fingertip Traverse
Trad 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 245
Angel's Fright
Trad 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 157
Jensen's Jaunt
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 432
Fingertrip
Trad 4 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 111
Piton Pooper
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 305
Traitor Horn
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 82
Upper Royal's Arch
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 76
The Jam Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 229
Coffin Nail
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 191
Dave's Deviation
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 206
El Camino Real
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 99
Human Fright
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 38
On the Road
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 40
Fred
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Trough W Face - Left Side
 251
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 4 pitches
Fingertip Traverse W Face - Right Side
 129
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 4 pitches
Angel's Fright W Face - Center (Flin…
 245
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 4 pitches
Jensen's Jaunt W Face - Right Side
 157
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 4 pitches
Fingertrip W Face - Right Side
 432
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Piton Pooper W Face - Left Side
 111
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Traitor Horn W Face - Right Side
 305
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Upper Royal's Arch W Face - Left Side
 82
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Jam Crack W Face - Left Side
 76
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Coffin Nail W Face - Right Side
 229
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Dave's Deviation W Face - Left Side
 191
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
El Camino Real W Face - Right Side
 206
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Human Fright W Face - Center (Flin…
 99
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
On the Road W Face - Right Side
 38
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Fred W Face - Center (Flin…
 40
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in West Face »

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Photos

Dpurf
Superior
Dpurf   Superior
I think the Description needs a bit more.

The West Face From the left side start with the Trought (5.4) and moves to the right and around to the Edge (5.11a). Most of the route lead to Lunch Ledge, then up to the top from there. Lunch Ledge is a ledge with a pine tree in it about 200 fett above Lunch Rock. The West Face has a number of moderate climbs on and is very popular.

The Descent is via the Friction Route (4th Class but is hard to find).

The approach is from the Climber trail to Lunch Rock. Go Left and up around Lunch rock to get to like the Trough, Dave's Deviation and Angel's Fright. Go Right and up to get to Human Fright and Finger Trip. Or continue around and right to get to climbs like El Camino Real, Coffin Nail, Jensen Jaunt, Traitor Horn and the Edge. Feb 23, 2006
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
As Dpurf mentioned the Friction Descent is hard to find...we had to google it (good thing my partner had 4g up at the summit) and we found this immensely helpful post on a forum regarding this very thing, copied and pasted here for your benefit:

"From the top of Fingertrip, walk up the slabs and blocky terrain for a few minutes until you see two garage-sized boulders with bushes and trees growing in between and around them off towards the right. Scramble up easy blocks between these two large boulders. As soon as you are between them, immediately go down and right, through some small trees to a short steep section. Down-climb this using chimney moves with giant handholds. From here, you zig-zag down the rock on ledges, with a few butt-slides. Generally trend left when facing out on your way down. Once you reach the ground, follow a loose trail down to the Open Book and hang a right towards your bags.

I highly recommend you buy a guidebook from Nomad Ventures in Idyllwild. It'll be worth the investment so you can be sure you're climbing the route you want."

---From user Ryan Strickland Jun 13, 2014

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