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Routes in West Face - Center (Flintstone Slab)

Angel's Fright T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Angel's Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Barney TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bedrock T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Betty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blankety Blank T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cary Granite T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dino T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fred T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fright Night T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Great Gazoo, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Human Fright T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Slate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quarry, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Switchbacks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Switchbacks, Direct Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Twinkletoes T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Mendenhall & Royal Robbins, June 1952, FFA: Bob Kamps, 1963
Page Views: 5,452 total, 38/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The crux is not exposed, so the name is a misnomer. Pitch 1 (5.9+) has a mix of liebacking and jamming, with some loose rock. Pitch 2 (5.10A) has some strenuous and awkward jamming in the back of a large dihedral.

Protection

standard rack
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a
I believe P1 is steeper and more challenging than P2. Sep 25, 2017
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
Pretty sure the name is not a comment on the nature of the climbing itself but a reference to the nearby Angel's Fright (which is a reference to the Angel's Flight tram in downtown LA). Those early Tahquitz climbers enjoyed a good pun. Sep 3, 2017
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
at the end of P2 big dihedral, opted for the cool traverse to climber's right to the P2 bolted rap anchor of Fred. then two raps with one 60 m rope down Fred. first rap about 90 ft down and angling to climber's left, to the Fred P1 bolted rap anchor located on face right of and slightly above Human Fright P1 anchor. last rap just long enough by again angling to climber's left back onto the starting tree ledge Jul 22, 2014
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10a
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10a
Did this route same day after super pooper. I thought they were about the same difficulty. At least the pitch 2 of this route May 29, 2014
Tradiban
  5.10a
Tradiban  
  5.10a
P2 has a short but definitely solid 10a section. Continuing after the dihedral go slightly right then back left to the lunch ledge pine-tree for a full pitch. Rap from there or finish on one of the many variations to the top. Oct 22, 2013
x15x15  
this is another route that I like to stretch into one longer pitch by combining 1 & 2... Oct 7, 2013
Surprising that the second pitch seems to get little traffic. Its well worth climbing! I found a few small/medium stoppers to be useful on P2 in addition to the standard set of TCUs and hand-size pieces. Aug 22, 2011
JaredVagy
Santa Monica, Ca
JaredVagy   Santa Monica, Ca
There was intact webbing but no rings at pitch 2 rappell; we added a bail beaner with duct-tape (didn't have rings). Please leave for future parties or replace with a ring. Aug 2, 2011
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
 
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
 
There is one fixed pin on P2 above the crux in the no hands rest. It's kind of hard to spot, but convenient if you see it. Nov 23, 2008
Charles I.
Boulder, CO
Charles I.   Boulder, CO
Great route. Thought the second pitch was quite good! Sep 7, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Super fun first pitch (all we did). I'd say 9+ is fair, definitely not 10a (not even in the same league as Super Pooper!) Lots of loose blocks, but they all seems relatively secure.. though it does add a little creep factor to the climb. Jun 11, 2008
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
There are rap rings on slings on a small tree at the top of P2, so you can rap with an approx 56m rope to the rap anchor at the top of P1. Jul 30, 2007
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Human Fright is an awesome climb. Loved the jams, loved the liebacks, loved the chicken wings! Jul 25, 2007
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
hmmm. Well that definitely explains some things. I guess I need to study the topo a little better next time. Aug 1, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Sounds like you did the last pitch of Frightful Fright, a seldom done and well named route. May 14, 2006
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
There is a 3rd pitch to this route that wanders on the face just right of Angel's Fright. The gear and bolt on this pitch suck, and it definitely put some fright into me anyway. May 13, 2006