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Routes in West Face - Left Side

Blank, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dave's Deviation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dave's Deviation Direct Start T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Devil's Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Frightful Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gallwas' Gallop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jam Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jonah T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Legends of the Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Manwich T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Passover, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Piton Pooper T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poker Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rack, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scarface T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Spiders From Mars/Lower Royals Arch/Ziggy Stardust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trough, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Upper Royal's Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whale Walk T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Royal Robbins, Jerry Gallwas, and Chuck Wilts, 1953
Page Views: 6,906 total, 48/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006 with updates
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Getting to the base of this route is more difficult than climbing it.

Move off the ledge and follow the arch up. When staying in the arch becomes too difficult, move left onto the face and up before moving back to the arch. Surmount the arch at the obvious weakness then move up and over a final headwall. Pull over the improbable steep face on good holds and belay off a tree or on gear under large boulders.

Location

Easiest access to Upper Royals Arch is from Piton Pooper. After climbing the first 20 meters of Piton Pooper, start looking to move up and left to a pine tree. Some adventurous climbing up and left behind a bushy ledge eventually leads you to the pine tree at the base of the arch. Belay on a small ledge left of the pine tree on a gear anchor. 50 meters from Pine Tree Ledge.

Protection

Gear to 3", one 4" piece useful but not required.
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
 
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
 
I think this route has the best top out moves of any route on Tahquitz. Go do it and see what you think! While no one move is all that difficult, the position makes the route feel challenging for the grade. Apr 23, 2016
steverett
San Diego, CA
5.8+
steverett   San Diego, CA
5.8+
For me the crux was the chimney/offwidth start to the arch, rest of the climb felt like 5.7 once I got out of that. Apr 4, 2016
alleyehave
San Diego, CA
  5.7
alleyehave   San Diego, CA
  5.7
Tread carefully when pulling the roof/overlap move. The flake you yard on is a time bomb. May 14, 2015
Ryan-G Gittins
San Diego
Ryan-G Gittins   San Diego
I thought this was one of the best moderate pitches on Tahquitz - thoughtful, great position, good rock, etc..I also thought it was pretty in your face. The last climbs I led were El Camino and Open Book, and I didn't find the cruxes more secure, nor much harder...maybe its the intervening fatherhood, or lack of topi, but I think most 5.8 leaders we'll be in for a ride..and hopefully not into the dihedral if you protected high before moving down and out onto the face. Great pitch! Aug 12, 2014
Thomas Laursen
Huntington Beach, CA
 
Thomas Laursen   Huntington Beach, CA
 
Wander left to the face (easy) once the crack becomes fingertips, but wander back as soon as the crack becomes fingers/hands again. Otherwise, straight up the face is runout on shity, hollow gear.

Sweet exposure and a suprisingly fun second overhang to finish! Jun 10, 2014
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
Great finish for several link up variations. You can stay in the crack the whole way (a couple of PG moves @ 5.10). Good fun. Jun 3, 2012
David Wang
San Francisco, CA
  5.8
David Wang   San Francisco, CA
  5.8
liebacking the arch becomes difficult as the crack thins to mere finger tips. The easier way is to leave the crack as it thins and wander left onto the face. There are actually gear placements on the face.

5.8 as long as the leader is competent at finding the right path across the slab. Should you get overwhelmed by the exposure (like I did), look to the left and be thankful that you are not on the Vampire! May 22, 2006
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Yes - The Jam Crack (or better but a little harder, Dave's Deviation) combined with Piton Pooper and Upper Royal's Arch is a classic combo IMHO. I highly recommend it. Mar 7, 2006
Randy
  5.8
Randy  
  5.8
Actually, this route is usually done as an excellent way to finish off Piton Pooper. Instead of doing the easy second pitch (or upper part) of Piton Pooper, head up and left to a belay ledge. Then climb this fun, clean and quite exposed pitch which heads over the upper headwall. Mar 2, 2006