Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Cole, Gaines 1985
Page Views: 214 total · 13/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Aug 23, 2017
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is a "bittersweet" route...

It has insecure and demanding moves, relatively close to the bolts but due to where the ground-up bolting stances were chosen, you're almost always horizontally further than what feels comfortable. The hardest moves are relatively well protected near each bolt BUT don't mess up getting to bolt #3! Just sayin...and don't blow the mantel getting to bolt 1 either.

The majority of the moves are never easy and definitely a lot of power friction stand-ups on what, from below, appear to be huge footholds...they are not. At bolt 4, there are two options: for the full crux crank up and left perhaps grabbing your foot to place your toe "just right" OR from bolt 4 do a sneaky move right to a good foot and up to the bolt on Devil's Delight for an easier finish.

I lead this ummm...onsight until THE LAST move about to grab the first big hold and a friggin hold broke and I took a big whipper! The only really questionable rock is right there haha.

A couple days ago I caught a toprope on this and yup that reconfirms how heady this rig feels despite looking super well protected.

Location

Just left of Devil's Delight first pitch...

Protection

4 or 5 QD's
Optional Piece before 1st bolt (a nut or a grey alien or equivalent). I would recommend down climbing to unclip this piece after clipping the first bolt...that flake is not the most solid thing around.

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Murf  
I would have sworn this was already on the site. Not the first time I've felt like I've seen routes go missing/re-owned. Aug 24, 2017
Tom,

I don't recall ever seeing this route here before. Aug 24, 2017