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Routes in West Face - Left Side

Blank, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dave's Deviation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dave's Deviation Direct Start T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Devil's Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Frightful Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gallwas' Gallop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jam Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jonah T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Legends of the Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Manwich T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Passover, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Piton Pooper T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poker Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rack, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scarface T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Spiders From Mars/Lower Royals Arch/Ziggy Stardust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trough, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Upper Royal's Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whale Walk T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Cole, Gaines 1985
Page Views: 135 total · 16/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Aug 23, 2017
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a "bittersweet" route...

It has insecure and demanding moves, relatively close to the bolts but due to where the ground-up bolting stances were chosen, you're almost always horizontally further than what feels comfortable. The hardest moves are relatively well protected near each bolt BUT don't mess up getting to bolt #3! Just sayin...and don't blow the mantel getting to bolt 1 either.

The majority of the moves are never easy and definitely a lot of power friction stand-ups on what, from below, appear to be huge footholds...they are not. At bolt 4, there are two options: for the full crux crank up and left perhaps grabbing your foot to place your toe "just right" OR from bolt 4 do a sneaky move right to a good foot and up to the bolt on Devil's Delight for an easier finish.

I lead this ummm...onsight until THE LAST move about to grab the first big hold and a friggin hold broke and I took a big whipper! The only really questionable rock is right there haha.

A couple days ago I caught a toprope on this and yup that reconfirms how heady this rig feels despite looking super well protected.

Location

Just left of Devil's Delight first pitch...

Protection

4 or 5 QD's
Optional Piece before 1st bolt (a nut or a grey alien or equivalent). I would recommend down climbing to unclip this piece after clipping the first bolt...that flake is not the most solid thing around.

Photos

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Murf  
I would have sworn this was already on the site. Not the first time I've felt like I've seen routes go missing/re-owned. Aug 24, 2017
Tom,

I don't recall ever seeing this route here before. Aug 24, 2017

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