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Routes in West Face - Left Side

Blank, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dave's Deviation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dave's Deviation Direct Start T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Devil's Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Frightful Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gallwas' Gallop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jam Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jonah T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Legends of the Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Manwich T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Passover, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Piton Pooper T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poker Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rack, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scarface T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Spiders From Mars/Lower Royals Arch/Ziggy Stardust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trough, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Upper Royal's Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whale Walk T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jerry Gallwas, Chuck Wilts, and Royal Robbins, 1953
Page Views: 364 total · 2/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This route starts at Pine Tree Ledge. Pitch 1 (crux) is a steep face with some crack holds, and insecure climbing. An easy second pitch takes you to the top.


standard rack


This is a fun and challenging pitch with interesting moves and varying styles. Small cams (down to blue and black aliens) and nuts are definately recommended, but there is plenty of protection when you need it - just be a good leader and make sure you use pro opportunities when you see them! These pitches can also be linked to within scrambling height of the top using a 60m (to a large tree anchor), though the follower might have to tear down the anchor and move up a few feet while the leader moves over easy (though difficult to protect) terrain above. This is also a great alternative option if you find yourself stuck in the cue to head up Piton Pooper and Royal's Arches above. Jul 30, 2007
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
exciting fun. many thins. there's a fixed pin along the first vertical crack section on the first pitch. also another fixed pin with old flimpsy o-ring along the up-and-right traverse toward the end of that first pitch; probably wouldn't even hold bodyweight, but the relic helped point the way, bec almost got tempted to go the wrong way around the last arete to the left into a blind shallow corner that would soon trough out (from looking down from above afterward) Jul 5, 2011
Guy Keesee
Moorpark, CA
  5.9 PG13
Guy Keesee   Moorpark, CA
  5.9 PG13
Great up climbing on good holds, with good pro.
best way off of that ledge. Jul 15, 2014
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
  5.9 PG13
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
  5.9 PG13
Just did this one after having put it off for a while. No individual move felt all that challenging to warrant the 5.9+. However, all the essential pieces of pro were very small and a few key holds were just wedged/hanging blocks. A heady lead for sure. Be solid at 5.9 before getting on this one. You can get to the first pitch belay, placing pro at every opportunity, with nothing larger than a #1 C4 and a good selection of small cams. Jun 9, 2016

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