Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jerry Gallwas, Chuck Wilts, and Royal Robbins, 1953
Page Views: 391 total · 3/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

This route starts at Pine Tree Ledge. Pitch 1 (crux) is a steep face with some crack holds, and insecure climbing. An easy second pitch takes you to the top.

Protection

standard rack

Photos

ChugachMan
  5.9+
ChugachMan  
  5.9+
This is a fun and challenging pitch with interesting moves and varying styles. Small cams (down to blue and black aliens) and nuts are definately recommended, but there is plenty of protection when you need it - just be a good leader and make sure you use pro opportunities when you see them! These pitches can also be linked to within scrambling height of the top using a 60m (to a large tree anchor), though the follower might have to tear down the anchor and move up a few feet while the leader moves over easy (though difficult to protect) terrain above. This is also a great alternative option if you find yourself stuck in the cue to head up Piton Pooper and Royal's Arches above. Jul 30, 2007
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
exciting fun. many thins. there's a fixed pin along the first vertical crack section on the first pitch. also another fixed pin with old flimpsy o-ring along the up-and-right traverse toward the end of that first pitch; probably wouldn't even hold bodyweight, but the relic helped point the way, bec almost got tempted to go the wrong way around the last arete to the left into a blind shallow corner that would soon trough out (from looking down from above afterward) Jul 5, 2011
Guy Keesee
Moorpark, CA
  5.9 PG13
Guy Keesee   Moorpark, CA
  5.9 PG13
Great up climbing on good holds, with good pro.
best way off of that ledge. Jul 15, 2014
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
  5.9 PG13
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
  5.9 PG13
Just did this one after having put it off for a while. No individual move felt all that challenging to warrant the 5.9+. However, all the essential pieces of pro were very small and a few key holds were just wedged/hanging blocks. A heady lead for sure. Be solid at 5.9 before getting on this one. You can get to the first pitch belay, placing pro at every opportunity, with nothing larger than a #1 C4 and a good selection of small cams. Jun 9, 2016