Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Chuck Wilts and Jim Gorin, September 1944
Page Views: 1,115 total · 21/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Sep 16, 2014
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Alt start to The Trough. Start on Angel's Fright, head left on the ledge up big flakes to a bolted belay. Go straight up from the bolted belay (5.6) or around left (5.2). Aim for the tree on The Trough.


Starts on Angel's fright, ends on The Trough.




Ben Crowell
Ben Crowell  
I thought this was fun. Routefinding was straightforward, and there was good pro. Negatives would be the questionable stability of some of the flakes stuffed into the second chimney, and bushwhacking across the big brushy ledge. Even so, it was an interesting chance to traverse a section of the rock that I had never seen before. Some of the hordes of people doing The Trough on a Saturday might want to consider this as an alternative.
Historically, The Trough was the standard for 5.0 on the YDS, and the Frightful Variation was the standard for 5.2, so it doesn't make much sense that Vogel describes The Trough as 5.4 and this climb as 5.2. Ratings get inflated on climbs that a lot of people do, while there is a lot less inflationary pressure for climbs like this one or Northeast Farce that nobody does, and they tend to keep their historical ratings. I'm not sure why the people choosing the climbs as standards for the YDS thought this was two full grades harder than The Trough. I thought they were about the same, or maybe this one was one grade harder. The first chimney pitch is easy if you understand wide-hands crack technique, harder but still doable if you don't. I found it a little challenging to do the move up through the gap between the overlaps near the middle of the climb (what I'm calling P4 in my topo). I would call The Trough a modern 5.3, so the Frightful Variation is probably 5.4. Nov 10, 2018