Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bob Kamps, Richard Coats & Tom Higgins, June 1964, FFA: Rick Accomazzo and Tobin Sorenson, 1973
Page Views: 606 total · 33/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Sep 16, 2017
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This would be a solid fun route but it's missing protection.

P1 Starts on The Trough, take it to the lone pine on the left where some people belay for P1 of The Trough.

P2 Go straight up to a 20 ft flaring seam, there's some gear to start but soon there isn't. I got a good small X4, the smallest red one, and then ran it out a bit, then stepped right to a nice jug before the seam disappeared. Probably better to skip the seam and jump back on The Trough for a bit and trend left into a small corner system. There's a nice ledge under a small head wall for a gear belay. *****THERE"S A SCARY 3FT FLAKE AT THE END OF THIS PITCH HELD ON WITH SOME WEBBING, DON'T TOUCH!!!*****

P3 The money pitch, from the belay go right, over the scary flake to a left facing flake. Get on another ledge and then make a funky move to turn the corner right, to a great stance. There's a classic, albeit unprotected mantle that brings you to easier moves and then a lone 1/4 bolt with an aluminum hanger (no bueno). 10d moves over the bolt get you to a juggy left facing flake, past a nut and piton anchor (skip it) and then amazing jamming straight up through the roof.

P4 5.7 climbing to finish on Piton Pooper or Upper Royals Arch.

Location

Start on Trough, then climb the formation left, through the left side of the obvious roof.

Protection

Standard rack, one bad bolt.

Photos

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Tradiban
  5.10d
Tradiban  
  5.10d
Putting in a bolt from the stance before the mantle and replacing the higher bolt would make this a great climb. Jamming the roof system is pure awesome.

On P3 you can go left on the next ledge after the belay but there's 2 stacked blocks that are ready to blow. I managed to climb around them very carefully and did encounter an old star drive bolt, not sure if this was how the FA climbed it but it's easier than the mantle move to the right. Sep 16, 2017