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Routes in West Face - Left Side

Blank, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dave's Deviation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dave's Deviation Direct Start T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Devil's Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Frightful Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gallwas' Gallop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jam Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jonah T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Legends of the Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Manwich T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Passover, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Piton Pooper T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poker Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rack, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scarface T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Spiders From Mars/Lower Royals Arch/Ziggy Stardust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trough, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Upper Royal's Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whale Walk T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FA Bob Brinton and Andy Johnson, September 1936 FFA Chuck Wilts, Ellen Wilts, and Spencer Austin, 1949
Page Views: 7,939 total · 55/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The sustained crux first pitch is a classic steep lieback. Begin by traversing left around a corner from Pine Tree Ledge. A 150 foot long 5.4 second pitch goes up over broken rock, and past (or through!) a pine tree. A short, easy third pitch leads to the top.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

GDavis  
Climbed this pitch again for the first time in years, wow! Exciting and great position with excellent pro and good rests. A great intro to steeper climbing and dihedrals, and combining with Upper Royals and your choice of Dave's/Jam Crack below felt like a poor man's Crescent Arch! Sep 21, 2015
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.7+
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.7+
This route was alright, not great. A 60m will allow you to get from the left side of Pine Tree ledge to the start of Upper Royal's Arch. Enjoy! Sep 25, 2013
FrankPS
Atascadero, CA
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
And I'd add that DD, JC, PP and URA is a great linkup. Wonderful climb. Sep 12, 2013
Nope, It's one pitch of the DD,JC,PP,URA Sep 10, 2013
Tradiban
  5.7
Tradiban  
  5.7
This route is very "meh". Yea, good 5.7...for about 20ft and that's it. It's really just an alternative finish to the Trough. Sep 9, 2013
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
Dihedral pitch is steep. Real, real good climbing for the grade.
To get to the start of Piton Pooper I would recommend starting up the 1st 2 pitches of Dave's Deviation (5.9).

With decent rope mgmt you can get all the way up and left to the small pine tree where Upper Royal's Arch starts (5.8 or 5.10).

The Piton Pooper corner is between these. Great link up. Jun 3, 2012
I tried this after climbing for a week or so and backed off. Jul 21, 2011
JoshuaTreeRunner David
Los Angeles
  5.8-
JoshuaTreeRunner David   Los Angeles
  5.8-
The layback just above the piton is difficult (5.8) for me, but then again i suck at laybacks. because the layback section is a bit overhung and the feet dissapear, its difficult to climb the upper piton crack as a standard crack climb. otherwise, protection is good everywhere on this route. Sep 22, 2008
Jon Hanlon
SLO
5.7+
Jon Hanlon   SLO
5.7+
No convenience anchors have been required since 1936. There's no need to add any now.

Well said! Aug 17, 2007
There are plenty of protection options here. No convenience anchors have been required since 1936. There's no need to add any now. Aug 14, 2007
Great route to test yourself on if you want to know how solid you are on 5.7 multi-pitch trad. Very well protected and you will feel like you have climbed a much harder climb. I feel exhilarated every time I have done this. Aug 14, 2007
David Wang
San Francisco, CA
  5.7+
David Wang   San Francisco, CA
  5.7+
The block/flake at the left end of pine tree ledge is the natural choice for anchor to start piton pooper. However I recall the block/flake was very hollow sounding. The challenge is to prevent rope drag while protecting a possible factor 2 fall. One possible, albeit somewhat unglamourous, solution is to walk a piece up until rope drag is no longer an issue.

Strenuous but very doable at 5.7+ with smart rest stances. May 22, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.7+
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.7+
Marvelous dihedral crack on classic Tahquitz granite....!!! Pro #2 Camalots Mar 7, 2006