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Routes in West Face - Left Side

Blank, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dave's Deviation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dave's Deviation Direct Start T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Devil's Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Frightful Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gallwas' Gallop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jam Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jonah T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Legends of the Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Manwich T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Passover, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Piton Pooper T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poker Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rack, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scarface T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Spiders From Mars/Lower Royals Arch/Ziggy Stardust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trough, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Upper Royal's Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whale Walk T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Royal Robbins and Jerry Gallwas, May 1954, FFA: Tom Frost and Bob Kamps, 1960
Page Views: 2,811 total, 20/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This four pitch route is quite sustained, with the pitches rated 5.9, 5.10A, 5.10A, and 5.9. It starts 20 feet left of Angel’s Fright. Climb the short left-facing dihedral (not the more difficult thin crack just to its right) via finger jamming, and belay on a large ledge. Pitch 2 goes up over the right side of an overhang (fun), and up to a hidden belay ledge above. Pitch 3 is a clean, wide, right-facing corner with liebacks, hand and fist jams, and a few offwidth moves. On pitch 4, climb up to a bolt, and then traverse left to easy ground. From here, you can move left to Pine Tree ledge, or right to Lunch Ledge.

Protection

Bring two or three pieces in the 3.5 to 4 inch range for pitch 3.
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10a
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
  5.10a
I led the crux pitch (p3?) and only brought a few cams from 1-4 inches and a set of nuts. At the end of the pitch you traverse straight right to a belay stance next to a dead tree. I nearly belayed solely off the tree but decided to lower some rope down to my partner to pull up some gear for a decent anchor. When my partner got to the traverse, he was moving quick and fell! The only cam protecting him on the traverse was a poorly placed red link cam. It blew out and he took a good 20 footer! Good thing I pulled up some good gear for the anchor!

Moral of the story... Make sure you bring more than a few cams and nuts on the pitch! That tree is not worthy a belay anchor. Apr 17, 2015
Tradiban
  5.10a
Tradiban  
  5.10a
Done in two pitches, very awkward in the dihedral, I was under-cling fist-jamming, whatever that is. Oct 22, 2013
Mark K
 
Mark K  
 
This can easily be done in two pitches, linking 1&2 and 3&4, with a 70 (I'm pretty sure a 60 would be fine as well). Very fun route. Jul 2, 2012
benjamin brownell
Ashland, OR
 
benjamin brownell   Ashland, OR
 
Nice route, not really 'sustained' but consistently fun. Skipped last pitches to finish on Jonah, which was a great link. First few moves off the ground are tricky thin fingers, but plenty pro. Carry on past belay ledge at 50' if you want. It's still unclear to me which is the standard way through the overlap on P2, went left around roof and stepped back right into crack at 8/9. Could lieback the wider (4"+) direct route, or try something else further right, all probably 10ish. P3 is a fun corner/overhang lieback, not too strenuous. p4 was not obvious off the belay, but you can easily move right into Jonah, with or without the .10R traverse...and leave it again on Lunch Ledge if the .10 finale doesn't go. May 18, 2010
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
Hey Murf, thanks - that makes alot more sense now.

BTW- are your murf as in tom murphy? you remember that kid that tom mcnatt taught to climb back in the day? well I'm still at it :) Apr 13, 2010
Murf  
Left side is standard for The Blank, center is Jonah. Aug 24, 2009
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
Did the first two pitches of this route last weekend. looking at the topo, it looks like it should go up the finger crack splitting the large portion of the roof on p.2 - I am now pretty sure this is not the "standard" route - we eventually made it up that way after maybe 8 falls, but it is undoubtably harder than 10a - I'd give it more like firm 10c or so. I'm not sure, but it was pretty hard. shaken, we bailed off onto the final pitches of angel's fright.

it looks like you could go up the offwidth/lieback crack on the left of the roof, or maybe around to the right of the big portion of the roof. anybody know a) what the center finger crack is? and b) the "official" route? Aug 24, 2009
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
Does anyone know what the tips crack in the center of the roof on the second pitch goes at?

Also, the guide book says to go up the left side of the roof, but I think the better path follows the description above. Aug 1, 2006