Type: Trad, 500 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Tom Higgins, R.Coats, Mike Cohen - August 1964
Page Views: 2,742 total · 16/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Mar 11, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A good route with something for everyone.

P1 5.10b. A thin crack heads up a little buttress to the left of Angels Fright chimney to end on a ledge with a tree.

P2 5.10c. Crux pitch. Up to a thin crack then thin moves over on overlap, straight up to a ledge.

P3 5.9. Wander up a face to a ledge with bushes.

P4 5.10a. A wild pitch. Up past a couple of bolts to a blank impasse, a "you've gotta be kidding me" traverse right (and down a little) heads to an arch which is followed to the outrageous "Ubangi Lips" (or Whale's Mouth) a kind of horizontal bomb-bay chimney which turns out to be okay - through this at a weakness to a ledge.

P5 Steps and an easy corner lead up to another ledge.

P6 5.10+. Thin face climbing in a lonely position leads past three bolts and to the top.

Location

Start just left of Angel's Fright chimney. Descend The Friction Route.

Protection

Standard rack with small pieces and quickdraws.

Photos