Type: Trad, 500 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Tom Higgins, R.Coats, Mike Cohen - August 1964
Page Views: 2,742 total · 16/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Mar 11, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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A good route with something for everyone.

P1 5.10b. A thin crack heads up a little buttress to the left of Angels Fright chimney to end on a ledge with a tree.

P2 5.10c. Crux pitch. Up to a thin crack then thin moves over on overlap, straight up to a ledge.

P3 5.9. Wander up a face to a ledge with bushes.

P4 5.10a. A wild pitch. Up past a couple of bolts to a blank impasse, a "you've gotta be kidding me" traverse right (and down a little) heads to an arch which is followed to the outrageous "Ubangi Lips" (or Whale's Mouth) a kind of horizontal bomb-bay chimney which turns out to be okay - through this at a weakness to a ledge.

P5 Steps and an easy corner lead up to another ledge.

P6 5.10+. Thin face climbing in a lonely position leads past three bolts and to the top.


Start just left of Angel's Fright chimney. Descend The Friction Route.


Standard rack with small pieces and quickdraws.